Map showing Salisbury, England ()
Map showing Salisbury, England ()
Salisbury Cathedral in the center of the city was constructed almost entirely in the 1200s. The early English Gothic cathedral has Britain's tallest spire. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)
Stained glass windows in Salisbury Cathedral. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)
Visitors walk at Old Sarum, a hill just outside of Salisbury, England, and once the site of a castle and cathedral. Only ruins remain of both structures. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)
A stone head used as decoration in an ancient structure in Salisbury, England, is on display in the city museum. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)
The front of Salisbury Cathedral in the heart of the city is decorated with statues of saints and bishops. (Adam L. Mathis/Stars and Stripes)
Salisbury is easy to overlook on the tourist trails of England, overshadowed in the east by Stonehenge, to the north by Bristol and Bath and to the south by Portsmouth.
Historically, the area was famous for lace (Downton lace) and a style of church service (the Sarum Rite), neither of which draws a lot of tourist dollars in this day and age.
But Salisbury has its own story, and the narrative starts just outside of town on the hill of Old Sarum, where ruins of a castle dating back about nine centuries are worth a look.
The hill on which the castle ruins are situated was home to Romans, Saxons and Normans, who became the rulers of England. The Normans used the site as an administrative center, but within approximately 200 years of their arrival in 1066, the site started to lose some of its influence and was torn down in 1500. Now, only bits of walls crown the hill, and those are stripped of their smooth outer stone leaving only rough cores to form shapes that would confuse the modern visitor if not for helpful placards that describe the former building.
Perhaps part of the reason the castle was allowed to fall into disrepair is because the future of the area was moving to the site of present-day Salisbury. Church leaders decided to move the cathedral from Old Sarum to its current location, and most of the construction was done in the 1200s.
Built in early English Gothic style, the cathedral’s interior is notable for its simplicity. Few decorations mark the vault of the roof and few carvings decorate the interior, though the outside of the church has numerous statues. Stained glass behind the altar and in other parts of the church draw the eye. The church also boasts one of the oldest clocks in the world, made during the 1300s.
Giving all of this more context is the city’s museum. The displays cover a broad time span, with Roman artifacts to more modern displays of lace produced nearby.
To finish the historical tour and return to the bustle of modern life, leave the cathedral grounds and head for Salisbury’s shopping district, which includes a market and numerous storefronts.
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Salisbury, England
Directions: Salisbury is west of London and can be reached by taking the M3 to the A303.
Times: The cathedral is open most days from 9 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. Salisbury Museum has similar closing times but opens most days at 10 a.m. Old Sarum’s hours are seasonal, but currently open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. throughout the week.
Prices: Salisbury Cathedral asks for donations of 6.5 British pounds for adults (about $10). Entry to Salisbury Museum costs 8 British pounds for adults, but discounts are available for the U.S. military. Old Sarum costs about 4 British pounds.
Food: Numerous restaurants, including coffee shops and pubs, are in the area
Information:
• Salisbury Cathedral: www.salisburycathedral.org.uk
• Salisbury Museum: www.salisburymuseum.org.uk
• Old Sarum: www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/old-sarum
Of special interest
Salisbury was recently declared one of the Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Cities in the Best in Travel for 2015. There will be a lot of focus in 2015 on Magna Carta, which cele-brates its 800th anniversary. Magna Carta celebrations will be focused on Salisbury Cathedral, which houses one of the best preserved copies of the document within its Chapter House. Magna Carta 2015 events will include a brand-new exhibition and a Magna Flora Flower Festival. Find events at visitwiltshire.co.uk/whats-on/magna-carta-2015.
