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The bear and its trainer are among the traditional characters from the village of Studnice, Czech Republic, and have been part of traditional carnival celebrations there for 200 to 300 years. The bear costume is said to be made of real fur.

The bear and its trainer are among the traditional characters from the village of Studnice, Czech Republic, and have been part of traditional carnival celebrations there for 200 to 300 years. The bear costume is said to be made of real fur. (Photos by Michael Heitmann/Special to Stars and Stripes)

The bear and its trainer are among the traditional characters from the village of Studnice, Czech Republic, and have been part of traditional carnival celebrations there for 200 to 300 years. The bear costume is said to be made of real fur.

The bear and its trainer are among the traditional characters from the village of Studnice, Czech Republic, and have been part of traditional carnival celebrations there for 200 to 300 years. The bear costume is said to be made of real fur. (Photos by Michael Heitmann/Special to Stars and Stripes)

A man dressed as a hunchback joints carnival celebrations in Zizkov, a section of Prague.

A man dressed as a hunchback joints carnival celebrations in Zizkov, a section of Prague. ()

A costumed marcher greets spectators at the end of the Masopust parade in Zizkov. The district has taken the lead in reintroducing carnival traditions that disappeared from big cities during communist rule.

A costumed marcher greets spectators at the end of the Masopust parade in Zizkov. The district has taken the lead in reintroducing carnival traditions that disappeared from big cities during communist rule. ()

Prague never passes up an excuse to throw a good party.

Carnival — or "Masopust," as it is called there — is no exception. With festivities ranging from a fancy costume ball and special gallery exhibits to wild street fairs and parades throughout the Czech capital’s various districts and surrounding villages, there is no shortage of fun when it comes to the last big bash of the winter season.

Masopust, which literally translates to "goodbye to meat," officially runs from Three King’s Day on Jan. 6 until Ash Wednesday, which falls on Feb. 17 this year. But the main action happens Feb. 12-15, culminating on Fat Tuesday with a series of parades, balls and, in keeping with Czech fashion, a lot of meat and beer.

At the heart of the merrymaking is Zizkov, a slightly offbeat neighborhood on the outskirts of Prague’s city center. It has been setting the pace of the annual Masopust celebrations for nearly two decades, with each year’s larger and more elaborate than the previous one.

"We are the most original," claims Zizkov town hall spokesman Jeronym Janicek, who notes that the neighborhood was one of the first in the city to resurrect the tradition in the early 1990s, after communism fell. A lot of people give the neighborhood credit for helping bring new life into a festival that had fallen into obscurity.

"The celebration is mostly about tradition, celebrating in an alternative way," Janicek says. "It includes all age groups across the cultural spectrum, and that’s the nice thing about this. It’s all-inclusive."

Everyone gets in on the action. Locals, expatriates, young and old can be seen frolicking in the streets during Masopust’s final blowout weekend. Even the district’s good-natured politicians, who have been known to dress up in traditional masks and colorful garb, can be seen enjoying themselves among the food booths and sideshows nestled around Jiriho z Podebrad square, the event’s center stage.

Unlike other parts of Prague, where the Masopust festivities seem more muted and tame, Zizkov lets everything hang out. But while the neighborhood is revered for its eccentricity, it also knows how to host a family friendly street party with a decidedly small-town vibe that, for all its craziness, everyone can enjoy.

"It’s fair to say that the primary rule is the food, music and fun," Janicek said. "It’s something that comes out of folklore, out of our hearts. There is a very big political will to make this celebration."

Masopust traditions originated in small, medieval villages dotting the Czech countryside, where there were stronger religious communities than in the big cities. The celebration was used to usher in the 40-day Lenten season, and many devout families chose to forgo eating meat during this period.

But it also followed a pagan tradition. "In medieval times, food was scarce, and for many this would be the last time the people had something to eat or drink," Janicek says. "In this way, we are revisiting the past, to have fun and to be closer to nature’s cycle."

Masopust continues to put a big focus on meat. Zizkov usually kicks off festivities with a pig roasting outside the town hall, passing out free portions to revelers who come in costume. The meat theme continues all weekend with outdoor food booths selling kebabs hot off the spit. Many restaurants around the city also have special Masopust menus.

In addition to the eating and drinking, there are various carnival-themed masked balls around the city. In Zizkov, dancing will go down at the Palac Akropolis on Feb. 13, while the glamorous Clam-Gallas Palac will host the Crystal Ball, an elaborate masked affair, in the Old Town on the same evening.

Carnival festivities start a little earlier in the city center, with the official opening ceremonies taking place under the Powder Tower on Feb. 6. But they all wrap up on Feb. 16 with parades all over the city. One will march through the city center’s winding streets, ending with a scenic firework display over Charles Bridge.

However, for those looking for a more authentic, less touristy experience, Zizkov is still the perfect stomping ground. Town hall officials claim hundreds of homegrown floats and attractions will bop through neighborhood streets, with participants stopping for pictures or swooping into a corner pub for a quick drink before popping back out to join the crowd.

"This is the spirit of Zizkov," Janicek says.

Julie O’Shea is a freelance journalist who lives in Prague. E-mail her at julie0616@gmail.com.

Know and Go• Prague’s Masopust 2010 will take place Feb. 12-17.

• The Masopust Ball is Feb. 13 at Palac Akropolis, Kubelíkova 27, Prague 3, starting at 7:30 p.m. Entrance fee is 100 czech crowns (about $5.40). Find details at www.palacakropolis.com.

• The Crystal Ball is Feb. 13 at Clam-Gallas Palac, Husova 20, Prague 1, starting at 8:30 p.m. Find more information at www.carnevale.cz and http://wussin.cz/wussin/Crystal_Ball_en.html; both have English versions.

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