Spectators take in the lilies while enjoying some shade at one of the landmarks at the flower park. More than a million lilies are in bloom and on display during the island’s annual festival, which runs from late April through early May. (Natasha Lee / S&S)
Most flock to Ie Island — a quaint little plot off Okinawa’s northwest coast — to gaze at the thousands of white trumpet lilies that blanket the fields there in the spring.
The Ie Lily Festival, held in late April through early May, attracts throngs of visitors who board a ferry from Motobu Port for a 30-minute sea ride to the "flower paradise."
I too, hitched a ride, on the last Sunday of the festival — hoping to snap photos of the flower fields and partake in some festivities, although the trip ended up providing more lively surprises.
My neighbor Grace tagged along with the same ambitions. We boarded a ferry so crowded even sardines in a tin had more room. The claustrophobic feel summoned images of the historical pilgrimages to Ellis Island — hundreds squeezed into a ferry sailing toward the American dream.
Base tour offices recommend some pre-planning on these types of day trips. Bikes and cars can be rented outside the island’s information center, and are necessary. Although the island is only about eight square miles, its attractions are spread throughout.
We threw caution to the wind, however, and decided to wing it. During the festival season, shuttle buses at the island’s port offer trips to and from the lily field for 200 yen each way.
Rows of tobacco leaves greeted us from the bus windows as we rode the 10-minute ride to the lily fields. Growing tobacco is among the main income sources for island locals, along with fish farming and producing beef. Various flower gardens fragrant the island including daffodils, hibiscus and chrysanthemum.
The island’s population is just over 5,000, so houses are sporadic or found on large farming plots.
Besides its famous flowers, the island, or village as it’s called, is also known for its war memorials, including one dedicated to war correspondent Ernie Pyle, fishing ports and a 236-foot-high peak that provides an awesome panoramic view of the island and its neighbors.
Before checking out the flowers, we stopped at a nearby tide pool located south of the field’s entrance. Exposed coral reef and lava rocks substitute as steps that lead to a cliff overlooking the Pacific. Holes filled with ocean water provide a haven for small octopuses, sea snails and clams. Tiny black fish darting around in circles kept a group of young spectators entertained.
The festival’s atmosphere was cheerful; being surrounded by a million lilies appeared to put a smile on most people’s faces as they wandered through the fields taking pictures. Food booths offering yakisoba noodles, sushi, doughnuts and cream slushies lined a dirt trail. Across the way, a young Japanese R&B group performed center stage, working hard to get a largely senior audience hip to its youthful lyrics. The 85-degree weather had most visitors laid out on blankets, soaking in the sun.
While the lilies were spectacular, the highlight for me was a two-hour bus tour that took us to several off-the-beaten-path attractions. The tour cost 1,200 yen and was only offered in Japanese, but we figured it’d be the best way to see the island, considering we were without transportation. We were lucky to sit behind a young, bilingual man who was able to provide us with some translation from the tour guide.
The bus drove right onto what’s dubbed the "abandoned runway of the U.S. base," an airstrip now used by the U.S. Marine Corps. The bus driver said the military still occupies about 30 percent of the island.
We took in the ocean views from the northern coastline at Wajee point; listened to the soothing sounds of an Ocarina, an ancient flute-like instrument; and ventured into the Niya-thiya cave, once used as a bomb shelter during World War II.
My major feat was climbing to the top of Mt. Gusuku, or Iejima Tacchu as locals call it. Legend has it that a young Japanese woman used her long black hair to hang herself at the top of the mountain after learning the man she loved had married another.
You learn how out of shape you are when women wearing high heels walk up the steep, winding stairs with ease, as did many elderly folks who passed right by me. But I made it nonetheless.
It sounds cliché — but the view was worth it. I won’t spoil it for you with some cheesy description; you should check it out for yourself.
If you go ...Ie Shima is open to the public year-round with the exception of February.
How to get there:
Ferry service to Ie Shima runs from Motobu Port, which is located in between Nakajin and Nago. The port is also near Churaumi Aquarium, also known as Ocean Expo Park.
From Camp Foster, head north on Highway 58 toward Nago. Continue through Kadena Circle then take Route 449 to the Motobu Ferry Port. It’s about an hour drive. Free parking is available.
During festival season, ferries run almost hourly from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. depending on the day. During off-peak season, ferries run every two to three hours.
The Lily Festival runs April 19 through May 6. During festival season, shuttle buses provide transportation to and from the lily field. Cost: Y200 per ticket. Rental cars and bicycles are available outside Ie Island’s information center at its port. Reservations required during festival or peak season. Admission to the festival is free; but bring yen for food and gift shopping.
Ferry tickets: Y1,110 for adults; Y560 children 6-12; Y6,500 to Y9,000 to transport vehicles, adult ticket fee included. Reservations may be required to transport vehicles on ferry. For more information, call Motobu Port at 098-047-3940 or Ie Port at 098-049-2255.
If planning to stay for a weekend, check out YYY Resort Hotel, which offers a host of activities including fishing, windsurfing, snorkeling, sunset cruises, and hiking at discounted rates frp, Y1,100 to Y10,500 per person. Room rates start at Y13,650, and vary depending on number of people and type of room. For more information, call 098-049-5011. The hotel only accepts yen.
For more details, contact MCCS Tours Plus at 646-3502 or visit www.iejima.org.