U.S. troops search through DVDs at a local bazaar at Bagram Air Base, Afghanistan. The bazaar is held on the base every Friday. (Michael Abrams / S&S)
BAGRAM AIR BASE, Afghanistan — Once every week, U.S. servicemembers get a chance to browse through local merchandise without crossing the perimeter fence.
Friday is bazaar day at American compounds in Bagram and Kabul. Dozens of local merchants set up stalls at designated spots with the goal of separating Americans from their dollars. In return, the vendors offer carpets, scarves, jewelry, swords, knives and various items made from wood, brass and stone.
Sgt. 1st Class Napoleon Cunningham, a soldier from Babenhausen, Germany, said he’s been in country only about three weeks.
“I’ve been here every week that I’ve been [at Bagram],” he said, motioning to the nearby stalls that were somewhat hidden under a series of plastic covers designed to keep out most of the rain.
He was the one shopping, but his wife, Michaela, back in Germany was the one benefiting.
“It’s basically all for her,” he said of the bag in his hand. “Except for the movies.”
Yes, the movies. The DVDs, featuring hundreds of options from American television and cinema, obviously aren’t of Afghan origin. Some of those around the bazaar say the DVDs are probably from Pakistan.
Some are pretty good copies, buyers say. Others aren’t. But because it costs just a few dollars to get DVDs that sometimes feature four or five movies — including some still making first runs in the States — not many customers seem to be complaining.
“I haven’t tried mine yet,” Chief Warrant Officer 3 Rogel Pagaduan said. He was referring to DVDs he had bought a week earlier. This week, he paid $10 each for three blankets.
“I think it’s a pretty good deal,” he said.
But maybe not as good as the one Capt. Peter Santos said he got. He purchased five carved wooden chests — each personally engraved with a name — for much less than he would have paid in Germany.
“I’m going to come and pick them up in two weeks,” he said. “I got one for each member of my family.”
Many purchases come after some haggling. The buyers often end up paying more than they would if they were in a village off base, but those kinds of shopping opportunities come rarely, if ever. The sellers admit they’re making more off the troops than they could off base.
“I can sell more here,” said Ayatollah Noure, who was offering a variety of locally made carpets. He characterized business as “not bad.”
He said some of the carpets he sells take a month to make. Some take three months. Like many merchants, he spends about half the week selling wares at different coalition military compounds around the region.
Maj. John Tammes said the bazaar is a good deal for merchants, servicemembers and local villages. Merchants pay the equivalent of about $180 each time they come on base. The military puts that money into a local bank before using it to fund a variety of local projects.
He said there are 133 total slots for merchants at Bagram, with most limited to selling their goods every two weeks. They often line up their trucks on Thursday afternoons outside the gate to get a good spot for the next day.
Staff Sgt. Clint Kramer said a group of soldiers at Bagram takes a look at the merchandise before it goes on sale.
“We walk through to make sure they aren’t selling merchandise that’s prohibited and not going to clear customs,” he said.
Even those responsible for checking items get a chance to buy.
“There’s a lot of good junk out there,” said Spc. Don Henry, a member of Kramer’s customs crew.