The view above the Kagura ski area in Niigata prefecture, Japan, included a clear mountain vista on Jan. 18, 2024. (Seth Robson/Stars and Stripes)
Snowcapped mountains surround Yuzawa, a skiing mecca in Japan’s Niigata prefecture, about a three-hour drive from Tokyo.
There are a dozen ski resorts in and around Yuzawa, which can also be reached by bullet train from Tokyo Station in around 80 minutes.
It’s one of the most accessible snow sports destinations for U.S. troops stationed in or near Japan’s capital and a regular stop for base outdoor recreation day and weekend bus trips.
If you drive, make sure you have snow tires or chains, because the roads are often icy once you get into the mountains. Snow and ice mean checkpoints on the expressway where authorities make sure vehicles are equipped for the conditions.
If you’re a beginner, there are numerous places to hone your skills in the vicinity of Yuzawa.
Naeba Ski Resort, which hosts the Fuji Rock festival in summer, has something for everyone including “magic carpet” ski lifts on relatively flat terrain, a play area for the very young and a pair of gondolas servicing steeper slopes.
Skiers and snowboarders line up for first tracks at the Kagura ski area in Niigata prefecture, Japan, Jan. 18, 2024. (Seth Robson/Stars and Stripes)
Gala Yuzawa ski area is particularly easy to get to since its lift terminates in a train station. It doesn’t have very challenging slopes, but it has plenty of restaurants and fantastic views.
The same can be said of nearby resorts such as Kandatsu Snow Resort, which has an impressive terrain park where skiers and snowboarders practice tricks beside the central slope.
Expert skiers might want to head up to Kagura, which is linked to Naeba via the Dragondola lift. The ski area regularly boasts some of the lightest, deepest snow in Japan.
There are several ways to get to Kagura, but the easiest is via the Mitsumata Ropeway. There’s a small shop, changing rooms, food vendors and gear rental near the parking area, but it’s not easily accessible from the slopes.
The prime terrain at Kagura is reached by traversing from the top of the quad chairlift to another two-seater. Up there, at 6,000 feet, there’s no groomed snow, just a couple of vast bowls that include open hillsides and tree runs.
The top lift at Kagura ski area in Niigata prefecture, Japan, shown on Jan. 18, 2024, provides access to a couple of vast powder bowls that include open hillsides and tree runs. (Seth Robson/Stars and Stripes)
The top lift is only open until noon in January, so it pays to leave the parking area by 8 a.m. to get maximum at the top. Ski tourers can hike through a gate that leads into the backcountry. However, avalanches are a risk, so safety equipment and traveling in a group are a must.
After a tough day on the hill, it’s nice to relax at one of Yuzawa’s many onsens or hot springs. There’s a basic bathhouse at Mitsumata but at the bottom of the hill there are some more impressive facilities.
Hatsukaishi Onsen, near the Ishiuchi Maruyama ski area, has all the bells and whistles you expect from a top-notch Japanese hot spring.
There are big indoor pools and outdoor baths with amazing views of the surrounding mountains. An often-snow-covered tree decorates one of the outdoor bathing areas.
It’s the perfect place to recover from a hard workout on the slopes but don’t get too drowsy if you plan to drive home that night.
On the QT
Directions: From Tokyo, take the Kanetsu Expressway and exit at the Yuzawa interchange. Turn left for Kandatsu and Kagura ski areas. Turn right for Gala Yuzawa and Ishiuchi Maruyama. Parking at Mitsumata costs 1,000 yen on weekends.
Times: Ski lifts usually start at 8 a.m. with the last rides in the mid-afternoon, although hours are extended in February, and some areas offer night skiing.
Costs: An adult day pass at Kagura has increased to 7,200 yen, or about $49.50, this season. Elementary school children and younger ride for free. The ski area’s website offers discounts including coupons that can be redeemed for a free lunch at restaurants on the slopes.
Food: Kagura has eight restaurants and food vendors. The Snowman Cafe serves Japanese and Western meals and has large windows with a view of the nearby slope. Wada Goya, at the top of the gondola, serves rice and noodles. A meal runs at about 1500 yen.
Information: Online: princehotels.co.jp/ski/kagura/winter
