The main gate of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, South Korea. (Christopher Green/Stars and Stripes)
The amazing thing about South Korea is that no matter where you go on the peninsula, the country’s rich history is all around you, and no more so than in Suwon.
This city is a beautiful mix of modernization and history, symbolized by Suwon Hwaseong Fortress and the imposing wall that surrounds it.
King Jeongjo built the complex in 1796 to honor and house the remains of his father, Prince Sado. The walls stretch for 3 ½ miles and incorporate Paldalsan Mountain at the center.
There is much to see on a visit to the fortress: four gates and 48 buildings and other structures. The south gate, through which vehicles pass, seems enormous and almost monolithic. The fortress walls are nearly 23 feet tall.
The path leading to the west gate of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, South Korea. (Christopher Green/Stars and Stripes)
Within those walls are several points of interest worth checking out. I started with the Temporary Palace, mainly used as a government office or for King Jeongjo to stay in when he visited his father’s tomb. The palace is beautifully decorated and painted in vibrant colors.
Next is Daeseungwon, a giant, gold statue of Buddha that is visible from the palace courtyard, followed by Hyowon’s Bell, which local tradition encourages striking three times for good fortune and gratitude, and the Seonamammun, or secret gate.
The view of the city from the path along the wall is amazing.
The Suwon Cultural Foundation offers tours of the fortress for about 1,000 won, or less than $1, for military members, 1,500 won for other adults and 700 won for children.
You can pay more for traditional archery and bell-ringing experiences.
Hwaseong fortress should be on everyone’s list of places to see in South Korea.
The northwestern watchtower of Suwon Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, South Korea. (Christopher Green/Stars and Stripes)
On the QT
Location: Yeonghwa-dong, Jangan-gu, Suwon-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea.
Directions: A 45-minute drive from Osan Air Base and about an hour from Camp Humphreys.
Times: Open daily, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Night tours are available from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday.
Costs: Free admission.
Food: You’ll find many options, mostly cafes and restaurants, around the fortress.
Information: Phone: 031-290-3600; Online: swcf.or.kr/english
