The number two meal from Bravo Zulu Barbecue, or BZQ, at the New Sanno Hotel in Tokyo includes brisket, lamb shoulder and two sides. (Jeremy Stillwagner/Stars and Stripes)

Bravo Zulu Barbecue — or BZQ — at the New Sanno Hotel in Tokyo is a bold attempt to re-create American-style barbecue in central Tokyo.

The hotel, run by the Navy as a Defense Department oasis in the world’s largest city, opened the second-floor restaurant on Monday. At least two dozen diners lined up in the opening half-hour to try out the food.

First the good news: BZQ has several original, tasty sauces based on styles from across the United States. They are Texas Pit, Tennessee Red, KC Sweet and Spicy, Carolina Gold and Tangy Sweet Vinegar.

Although I’m not a big fan of vinegar-based sauces, I’d use the tangy, sweet sauce again.

A sixth sauce, Tokyo Miso, is an inspired creation, and while it didn’t quite hit the mark for me, I recommend that visitors try it for its unique flavor.

You’ll find all six sauces on each table at BZQ, so you can sample them and see what’s to your liking.

Bravo Zulu Barbecue, or BZQ, at the New Sanno Hotel in Tokyo is a bold attempt to re-create American-style barbecue in central Tokyo. (Jeremy Stillwagner/Stars and Stripes)

Now the disappointing part. Bravo Zulu — Navy speak for “job well done” — comes close, but doesn’t quite get there. My brisket and lamb shoulder were cooked to near perfection, tender and easily pulled apart. But where I expected something exciting, the meat itself was underseasoned.

Even the baked beans lacked the bold flavor you would expect from a barbecue joint back home.

The silver lining: everything is made in-house, meaning BZQ has full control of the recipes and quality. With a few tweaks and a little more seasoning, this place could really take off.

And the prices are very reasonable. My number two meal with two sides cost $16. Most items come with two sides, and you can add a third for another $2. I left the New Sanno with my belly full.

BZQ also has a kids’ menu along with barbecue sandwiches, several desserts and additional items like Frito pie, Texas-style chili and cornbread.

Maybe it’s not a destination quite yet, but Bravo Zulu Barbecue is definitely worth a stop when you’re in the neighborhood.

Bravo Zulu Barbecue, or BZQ, at the New Sanno Hotel in Tokyo is a bold attempt to re-create American-style barbecue in central Tokyo. (Jeremy Stillwagner/Stars and Stripes)

Bravo Zulu Barbecue

Location: New Sanno Hotel 2nd floor, 4-12-20, Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Hours: Open daily, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; last order at 9:30 p.m.

Prices: Meals range from $9 to $31

Dress: Casual

Information: Online: www.thenewsanno.com/dining