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Tortilla chips and guacamole at Mesilla Kitchen in Okinawa city.

Tortilla chips and guacamole at Mesilla Kitchen in Okinawa city. (Brian McElhiney/Stars and Stripes)

Craving a taste of Southwestern cuisine — specifically, New Mexican cuisine — on Okinawa? You’re not alone.

Marine Corps veteran Andre Park, owner of Mesilla Kitchen near Gate 2 Street in Okinawa city, said he’s amazed at how many of his fellow New Mexicans are on the island.

“At least two to three people a day tell me, ‘I’m from Albuquerque,’ ‘I’m from Rio Rancho,’” he recently told Stars and Stripes.

Before opening the brick-and-mortar location three months ago, Park operated a food truck on the island for about a year and a half.

“A lot of the customers were like, ‘Hey, when are you going to open a restaurant? When are you going to open a restaurant?’” Park said. “So, about a year before I decided to get out, we started working on it.”

Judging from the crowd on that recent night, Park does brisk business. The cozy restaurant was packed with off-duty service members and American families (Park says about 8-10% of his business comes from Okinawans).

The gordita plate at Mesilla Kitchen in Okinawa city.

The gordita plate at Mesilla Kitchen in Okinawa city. (Brian McElhiney/Stars and Stripes)

Customers order by filling out paper slips for the table. It was easy to figure out, and the waitstaff are American so any questions will be answered without awkward language faux pas.

You can customize menu items — I ordered the gordita plate (fried masa pockets stuffed with meat, cheese, lettuce and tomato) with one carnitas gordita and one pollo asada gordita.

The food came fast despite the crowd. Tortilla chips and a guacamole appetizer offered a preview of the generous portions to come – there was more than enough guac for every chip, unlike at some stingier restaurants I’ve been to in the States – and everything tasted homemade.

I am no expert when it comes to New Mexican food. Park explained how “it’s not authentic Mexican food, it’s New Mexican food, which is a blend of Mexican, Native American and all the cultures that are there.”

My party was surprised when we ordered the enchilada plate and received tortillas piled high with pollo asada chicken, cheese and sauce – almost like a deconstructed enchilada.

The plates come with Spanish rice and refried beans. These are American portions, not Okinawan, and my dining partner couldn’t finish her plate (no such problems on my end, however).

You can order double meat with any dish for an additional 500 yen, although that might not be necessary; the enchiladas and gorditas were stacked and satisfying with a normal helping.

I’m a huge fan of carnitas, and Mesilla’s version did not disappoint. I’d order the pollo asada again over it, however. The chicken was tender, moist and superbly seasoned. Other choices include carne asada and red chile meat, and the menu also offers New Mexican-style tacos, chilaquiles, sopapillas and options for the kids.

Mesilla Kitchen is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday and breakfast on Saturdays and Sundays. Park said he’d like to expand to lunch and is looking for more chefs.

Marine Corps veteran Andre Park, owner of Mesilla Kitchen in Okinawa city, said he’s amazed at how many of his fellow New Mexicans are on the island.

Marine Corps veteran Andre Park, owner of Mesilla Kitchen in Okinawa city, said he’s amazed at how many of his fellow New Mexicans are on the island. (Brian McElhiney/Stars and Stripes)

Mesilla Kitchen

Location: 4-16-1 Misato, Okinawa City, Okinawa

Hours: 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; 8 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. Saturday and Sunday

Prices: 1,500 to 2,500 yen per person for dinner, or about $10.55 to $17.58,

Information: @Mesilla_Kitchen on Instagam.

Brian McElhiney is a reporter for Stars and Stripes based in Okinawa, Japan. He has worked as a music reporter and editor for publications in New Hampshire, Vermont, New York and Oregon. One of his earliest journalistic inspirations came from reading Stars and Stripes as a kid growing up in Okinawa.

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