How much Christmas market magic can be packed into a single day? While a day’s outing to a city such as Strasbourg, France, or Cologne, Germany, can expose a visitor to a good number of strikingly different markets, each with its own particular ambiance, an alternate approach can be to drop by two or three markets within reasonable proximity to one another. By car or by ship, here are a trio of possible routes for maximizing Christmas market magic in Germany:
Baden-Württemberg: Experience a medieval market, romantic castle and a sea of sparkling lights with this auto route taking in Esslingen, Burg Hohenzollern and Reutlingen.
Start the day by making way to Esslingen, where one section of the Christmas market bursts with medieval flair. Be tempted by the rustic food and drink such as mead, hemp noodles, or dumplings or every description, or procure gifts such as handwoven baskets, pewter figurines or leather goods. Several craftsmen will be on hand to demonstrate their work. Online: tinyurl.com/5cwp4ybr
Next head off to the spectacular Hohenzollern Castle, perched high on a spur atop the remains of an 11th-century edifice. The castle remains in the hands of a nearly thousand-year-old dynasty to date. When Advent approaches, the castle is the site of an event titled “Königlichen Winterzauber” (“Royal Winter Magic”), in which its already impressive rooms are festively done up for the holidays. Unlike most markets, entry fees apply, and pre-booking an entry slot online in advance is highly recommended, as tickets for some dates have sold out already. Tickets purchased online go for 23 euros adults and 11 euros for youth ages 12-17; those age 11 and under enter free. Online: tinyurl.com/2he8wn4k
End the day with a stop in Reutlingen’s Old Town, where the Christmas market stands offer all the home décor and warm woolens needed to get through the holidays. As many local schools and clubs run several of the stands here, finding a unique handmade treasure isn’t out of the question. Families might wish to make way to the nearby Bürgerpark, where a carousel, Ferris wheel and skating rink are attractions bound to make young eyes shine brighter. Online: weihnachtsmarkt-reutlingen.de
Rhineland-Palatinate: Water features heavily in this route connecting the Saar and Mosel rivers by way of Saarburg, Bernkastel-Kues and Traben-Trarbach.
Saarburg’s best-known landmark, the waterfall gushing down through its center, makes the town stand out in a region bursting with rustic, rural charm. For just two weekends (Dec. 6-8 and 14-15), Saarburg hosts its Christkindlmarkt, a delight with its twinkling Christmas tree perched on high, brass bands playing and creative workshops for children. On Dec. 14 and 15, the Victorian-themed ”Jingle Bells” Christmas market takes place at the nearby Kulturgiesserei. Online: christkindlmarkt-saarburg.de
Bernkastel-Kues is a highlight of any trip along the twisting, turning Mosel, and visiting in the runup to Christmas unfailingly delights. Through Dec. 24, a new scene on the façade of the pharmacy gracing the market square is revealed daily at 5:30 p.m., and on most evenings, there’s some form of musical entertainment. Other special dates include Dec. 7, when torch-bearing swimmers jump in the waters of the river to accompany the figure of St. Nicholas, who meanwhile rides comfortably in a boat. On Dec. 21, fireworks set to music light up the night from 6 p.m. Online: weihnachtsmarkt-bernkastel-kues.de
Rain or ice-cold winds won’t manage to ruin an outing to Traben-Trarbach’s Christmas market, much of which takes place in the depths of disused wine cellars beneath the town. Five different spaces offer plenty of space for vendors of regional products, handmade goods, wine and related tipples. This market is open from Fridays through Sundays for most of the Christmas season, and entry costs 5 euros for all visitors ages 16 and over. Online: mosel-wein-nachts-markt.de
Bavaria: Our final itinerary unites three markets set on the shores of the Tegernsee, an idyllic lake nestled in the foothills of the Alps.
On Saturdays and Sundays only, the small towns of Bad Wiessee, Rottach-Egern and Tegernsee host small but magical Christmas markets, all connected by means of shuttle boats. The market at Bad Wiessee, set on the lake’s promenade, offers wares of wood, wool and ceramics as well as Bavarian whisky punch. Perchten, scary fur-clad beings similar to the Krampus, will descend upon the market at 5 p.m. Dec. 15. Rottach-Egern’s stalls, set up in the Kurpark, also offer handmade goods, along with entertainment for children in the form of face painting and puppet theater. The town of Tegernsee offers another 40 or so stalls for perusing crafts and curios, along with a herdsmen’s hut in which regional musicians play. And should it get too cold for standing around, the Tegernsee brewery is just around the corner.
The ships circulate in roughly half-hour intervals between 2 p.m. through 7 p.m. An adult ticket valid for the whole day goes for 15 euros. Children ages 14 and under can ride with a parent free of charge. Online: tegernsee.com/pendelschiff