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signs show distances to different towns

The Amberger Way hike spans 16 miles between the German cities of Vilseck and Amberg. Plenty of alternative paths allow hikers to make their journey as short or as long as desired. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

The Bavarian winter has kept the sun hidden for much of the winter season, making even a bundled-up walk through its vast wilderness a challenge to enjoy.

But unseasonably warm March weather and clear skies inspired me to hit the trails again recently, and I had begun searching for a long-distance route that offers both low difficulty and rewarding scenery.

I wanted suitable preparation for the summertime Nijmegen March, a popular 100-mile trek in the Netherlands. Such endurance marches are a common challenge for service members stationed in Germany.

A dirt path straight through the forest

The Amberger Way in Bavaria is well-maintained and hosts beautiful scenery along with stops in small towns all along the route. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

A small hut under trees in the forest with grass in the foreground

The Amberger Way is a scenic 16-mile hiking trail connecting the Bavarian cities of Vilseck and Amberg. Its length makes it well-suited for long-distance endurance training. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

A sapling shows green growing on its branches in the sunlight

Greenery is abundant throughout the Amberger Way hike, which covers a scenic 16-mile route connecting the German cities of Vilseck and Amberg. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

A friend who trains for long-distance running told me about a 16-mile trail connecting Vilseck and Amberg called Amberger Way. It begins at historic landmarks on both ends, winds through breathtaking nature and features small pit stops along the way.

If you choose Amberg as your starting point, the trail begins at the Ziegeltor monument, in a walkable area of the city, and wraps around stone walls before leaving the populous area behind.

A church between two buildings

St. Agidius church in Vilseck, Germany, is one of the two starting points of the Amberger Way trail, a scenic 16-mile hiking path that connects Vilseck and Amberg. The route is full of natural beauty and is ideal for long-distance endurance training. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

stone steps between walls lead to a street

Stone steps descend from St. Agidius church in Vilseck, Germany, to a street that forms part of the Amberger Way trail. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

After parking at city hall, my hiking buddy and I parked started our trek in Vilseck at the old St. Agidius church.

The two of us explored the church exterior, not minding the early stop to appreciate the architecture. Nearby, Dagestein Castle and Vilseck Castle also can be explored before even beginning the trek.

After descending to the street on a set of stone stairs, we passed by a park and cemetery before continuing to the outskirts of town, where our path became a dirt-and-gravel trail.

An Amberger Weg sign and a red cross sign are on a tree

The Amberger Way, which connects the German cities of Vilseck and Amberg, is a well-marked hiking trail that spans 16 miles. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

The forks in the path offered many possibilities. But we stayed the course toward Amberg, eager to see where the main route would lead.

I found myself captivated by the landscape. Rolling hills stretched before us, interrupted only by towering beech and spruce trees and the occasional stream weaving through the forest.

The hike never felt monotonous, and while the distance might earn it a medium to difficult rating, the elevation gain was manageable.

Tall trees are shown at the level of a grassy hill

Tall trees and moss are common along the Amberger Way between Vilseck and Amberg in the German state of Bavaria. The trail's terrain is accessible to people of all ages. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

The Amberger Way is challenging enough to keep things interesting but not so intense that a family with children couldn’t enjoy it. Sturdy boots were a must, though, as some sections were slick with mud.

My friend and I settled into an easy rhythm, ticking off the miles until we stumbled upon what would become the highlight of our day: an empty park in the quiet town of Adlholz.

Being the very mature adults that we are, we decided it was absolutely necessary to test the structural integrity of a wooden seesaw and swing. They passed the test — and provided a much-needed dose of childish joy.

Next to the park, a small duck pond allowed us to pause, snack and rehydrate before we set off again, refreshed and ready for whatever the trail had in store.

After a long, gloomy winter, we relished every opportunity to pause and take in the sun and greenery, admiring the moss-covered ground, clusters of mushrooms and the quiet hum of life awakening around us.

A person on a swing with feet in the air

Adlholz, Germany, a small town on the Amberger Way hike between Vilseck and Amberg, is an inviting place for a pit stop. (Lydia Gordon/Stars and Stripes)

Wanting to find a good turnaround point, we took it as a sign when we stumbled upon a towering windmill just over 5 miles in. An even 10 miles of hiking felt like a nice number, so we decided to double back.

Along the route, hikers encounter several small towns with restaurants, offering plenty of choices for refreshment.

As I begin training for the Nijmegen, I was mindful not to push too hard, too quickly.

But I’ll definitely return to this trail soon, possibly starting from the Amberg side next time, to take on the full 16-mile route.

Amberger Way hike

Address: Marktplatz 22, Vilseck, Germany; Ziegelgasse 44, Amberg, Germany

Cost: Free

Hours: Open year-round, but best visited during the spring and summer

Information: Online: ich-geh-wandern.de/amberger-weg

author picture
Lydia Gordon covers the U.S. military in Bavaria and Central Europe for Stars and Stripes. A Columbus, Ohio native, she’s an alumna of the Defense Information School, Belmont University and American Public University.

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