Cannons were used under Portuguese control of the Bahrain Fort in the 16th century. The Portuguese occupied Bahrain in 1521 and used it as part of their strategic defense. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

My recent visit to one of Manama’s must-see attractions began in disappointment, as I arrived at the Bahrain Fort only to find the hulking ancient structure closed to visitors.

Also referred to as Qal’at al-Bahrain, the fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site where sightseers can glimpse 4,000 years of the history of the country, which hosts a significant U.S. military presence.  

But since I couldn’t explore the fort itself, I went for a 15-minute walk along its perimeter before ending up at the museum connected to it.

The museum’s GB cafe provided a much-needed break after my trek in the heat. One of the best-known cafes on the island, GB serves cold drinks, homemade pastries and various lunch and dinner options.

It has an outdoor seating area shaded by towering palm groves and tables set along the coastline. The atmosphere felt distinctly Mediterranean and offered a pleasant escape from the Bahraini sun.

The walkway to Qal’at al-Bahrain, or Fort of Bahrain, is about 300 meters from the gated entrance and wraps around the entire ancient fort. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

GB Cafe, Bahrain Forts museum cafe, also offers outdoor garden seating. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

In the mid-20th century, archaeologists began to excavate the Bahrain Fort, revealing multiple layers of human habitation that spanned millennia.The fort and the surrounding area contain artifacts from the Dilmun civilization, Hellenistic period, early Islamic era and Portuguese period. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

Before starting my museum tour, I ordered an iced rose tea and a multigrain croissant to recharge.

The museum was designed by Danish architect Claus Wohlert and boasts a sleek, minimalist construction that contrasts with the ancient fort.

It recently expanded its interactive displays and added educational panels, offering deeper engagement with the site’s history. Nearby, the Dilmun Hills Museum is in the works. It will focus on the ancient pottery found and highlight the craftsmanship of the Dilmun people.

The Qalat al-Bahrain Site Museum is composed of five exhibition halls that display a collection of more than 500 artifacts discovered at the Bahrain Fort. Many rare ceramic pieces were restored such as the ones displayed here. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

The museum is composed of five exhibition halls that display a collection of more than 500 artifacts discovered at the Bahrain Fort. Many rare ceramic pieces were restored such as the ones displayed here. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

The museums architecture reflects a blend of modern design with the historical significance of the fort. The large windows offer sights of the sea and the fort in the distance. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

In 2008, the Qal’at al-Bahrain museum opened, showcasing archaeological findings of the Bahrain Fort. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

Though smaller than most traditional museums, this one allowed me to absorb the information without feeling overwhelmed.

The history of what is Bahrain today began with the Dilmun period, spanning two phases, the first circa 3000 to 2000 BCE and the second, 2000 to 1600 BCE. It was followed by the Tylos, the Sassanian Empire and the Islamic period between 200 BCE and the 7th century.

Then came the Portuguese occupation, which lasted from 1521 until 1602 and was followed by the post-Portuguese era, where the island came under the control of the Safavid Empire of Persia.

In 1861, Bahrain became a British protectorate, where Britain took responsibility for all military and foreign affairs. It wasn’t until 1971 that Bahrain declared independence and in 2002, formally declared a kingdom. Evidence of all these periods is showcased.

There were two particularly notable things at the museum. One was a section dedicated to cannonballs and weapons, which underscored the fort’s defensive role over the centuries.

In 2005, the Bahrain Fort was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Downtown Manama stretches in the background. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

The site of Bahrain Fort is believed to have been inhabited as early as 2300 BC and was a major settlement of the Dilmun civilization, one of the most prominent ancient cultures in the Gulf region. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

GB Cafe is connected to the museum. The menu offers options from burgers to pizza, or breakfast pastries and plenty of drinks and desserts. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)

The other thing that stood out to me was a set of 15 steles discovered accidentally in 1991 in private gardens. Archaeologists are still unsure about their meaning.

Their style dates them to the 2nd or 3rd centuries. What stands out most is the peculiar positioning of their hands. Both male and female figures consistently raise their right hand, palm facing forward, as if in a gesture of prayer. The unresolved mystery lies in whether these steles held social or religious significance, and if they reflect a cross-cultural exchange between empires.

By the end of the visit, my disappointment over the Fort’s closing had vanished. I felt the thrill of a rewarding day of sightseeing and education, plus a tasty snack.

On the QT

Address: Building 3618, Road 3863, Block 438 Manama, Bahrain

Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m.; Monday, closed

Cost: 2 dinars

Information: Online: culture.gov.bh/en/authority/cultural_sites/QalatAl-BahrainSiteMuseum