On balmy summer days, it’s sometimes nice to get away from the congested urban bustle of Stuttgart, Germany, with all the concrete and fumes that make everything feel hotter.
And it just so happens that a bucolic reprieve is available within the city limits. On Stuttgart’s western edge sits the Bärensee, a lake in a forested park with two other little lakes and an extensive network of hiking trails.
The location is a popular destination year-round. In the warmer months, the forest provides a shady canopy for long hikes. And in the fall, the changing leaves make the area one of the prettiest places in Stuttgart.
I made a recent trip to get in some exercise on a hot day, trudging around the lakes en route to the Bärenschlössle, a pavilion with a restaurant that makes for a good rest stop within the park grounds. Bikers, joggers and hikers all seem to congregate there after excursions out on the trails.
The Baerenschlössle, like the surrounding lake park, has an interesting backstory. It was built in 1768 to serve as a retreat for Duke Carl Eugen, who wanted a vacation spot with a Roman flair.
The Bärensee, a manmade lake, also was created at that time so that the duke could have a place for gondolas, which he brought back from his Italy travels.
But when the duke died, King Wilhelm had the palace demolished in 1817 and replaced with a hunting lodge. That building was mostly destroyed in 1943 during the World War II Allied bombing campaign over Stuttgart. It was reconstructed in the 1960s and then again after a fire in 1994.
These days the Bärenschlössle offers a pastoral view and a menu of local specialties, such as maultashen and spaetzle. You also can just order drinks and sit at one of the outdoor benches or have a picnic in the meadow.
Unfortunately, no swimming is allowed in the lakes, so the Bärensee isn’t the place to go if sand and sunbathing are what you’re looking for. But the wide-ranging trails easily afford users of several hours wandering around.
After a quick refreshment on my recent stop, it was back to the trails to enjoy the lush scenery and easygoing atmosphere before heading back to the bustle.
Bärensee
Location: The lake is in the larger Rotwild Park in Stuttgart. Easiest access is from Mahdentalstrasse, where there is a parking lot and street parking.
Hours: Open 24 hours a day year-round.
Cost: Free
Food: Near the Bärensee there is a restaurant, Bärenschlössle, which serves a wide variety of dishes. It’s open daily except for Monday.