The coastal town of Agropoli, Italy, is south of Salerno. It's known as the gateway to the Cilento Coast and its famed white, sandy beaches and outdoor recreation. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
The Amalfi Coast is beautiful. Unfortunately, nearly everyone with a plane ticket to Italy knows that.
Instead, try leaving those summer crowds behind and head to Agropoli for some fun off the beaten path.
Known as the gateway to Italy’s Cilento Coast, Agropoli is where you’ll find white, sandy beaches, the azure waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and mountaintop views of the Gulf of Salerno.
There are several private and public beaches in Agropoli for swimming and sunbathing with plenty of options for casual dining nearby. Some of the city's best beaches are south of the town center at Baia di Trentova. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
There also are opportunities for hiking, biking, sea kayaking, horseback riding and other outdoor activities that Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni provides. And history lovers can explore Agropoli’s medieval city center.
The quiet resort town of about 21,000 residents puts all that and more in reach, and under normal traffic conditions it’s an easy 90-minute drive from Naples.
Start the day in the historic center, situated on a promontory offering panoramic sea views. Wear comfortable shoes and bring water because the medieval village, with its stone pathways and staircases, is accessible only on foot.
This Byzantine Gate, or Porta Bizantina, is one of the entry points into Agropoli, Italy's medieval village. Just steps away is the Chiesa della Madonna di Constantinopli, which dates to at least 1583. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
To get there, walk up Via Filippo Patella to a set of cascading stairs leading to an ancient Byzantine gate.
Along the way, there are plenty of places offering a leisurely drink or bite to eat at budget-friendly prices. For example, two glasses of local wine, a cheese-and-meat platter and breadsticks can be had for as little as 10 euros during happy hours.
Past the gate, known as Porta Bizantina, the Chiesa della Madonna di Constantinopli is on the right. The small church with its statue of the Madonna dates to at least 1583. Local legend says the Madonna is the protector of fishermen.
The nearby Piazza Umberto offers views of Agropoli’s port and the sea.
The village also is home to the triangular-shaped Castello Angioino Aragonese, some remnants of which date back to the first half of the sixth century. On a recent visit, the castle was closed, so visit the tourist office to check on the hours of operation before you go.
The newer city center in Agropoli, Italy, includes a promenade lined with shops, bars and cafes, leading to the city's medieval village, which can be accessed only on foot. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
After exploring the city center, head south to see the port or visit one of Agropoli’s private and public beaches, including San Marco, Licina and San Francesco. At the latter, you can rent a kayak to see the famed Elephant Cave, accessible only by sea.
Traveling a bit farther south, you’ll find Baia di Trentova, a somewhat secluded cove with shallow, clear waters for swimming and two private beaches that rent umbrellas and sunbeds by reservation only.
There’s also public access for those who don’t mind setting up their towels and beach chairs on the rocky edges of the bay. Free public parking is nearby, but a covered parking spot directly adjacent to the beach area costs 5 euros and is valid from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
There are many hiking or walking trails to explore in and near Agropoli, Italy. This one, near Baia di Trentova, offers views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Gulf of Salerno and the city of Paestum. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
The Punta Tresino hiking trail near Baia di Trentova in Agropoli, Italy, ends near the town of Santa Maria di Castellabate. On the trail, hikers are treated to sweeping views of the sea and can pass by an abandoned village. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
Several hiking trails are accessible from Agropoli, including the Punta Tresino trail near Baia di Trentova to the city's south. The roughly 6-mile loop trail is moderate in difficulty and takes about four hours to complete. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
Trentova also is where hikers can find the Punta Tresino trail, a 6-mile loop that leads to the town of Santa Maria di Castellabate, where you can take a bus back to Agropoli every day except Sundays if you don’t want to hike the entire trail.
The trail is moderate in difficulty and takes about four hours. Along the way, hikers will see expansive views of the Gulf of Salerno, Capri and the Amalfi Coast as well as Paestum with its ancient Greek temples.
Wear plenty of sunscreen and consider pants and a long-sleeved shirt, as portions of the trail are narrow with overgrowth of blackberry bushes and other vegetation. Morning hikers will want to carry a long stick to knock back cobwebs.
With plenty to do and see plus the charm and quiet of a small coastal town, it’s easy to see why Agropoli is a favorite of vacationing Italians and visitors alike.
There are two private beaches, Lido Trentova and Lido Jamaica, at Baia di Trentova in Agropoli, Italy. Both require reservations in advance for the use of umbrellas, sunbeds and other beach necessities such as showers. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
On the QT
How to get there: From Naples, take A3 south towards Salerno for about 45 miles. Get off at the Battipaglia exit and continue on Strada Statale 18 Tirrena Inferiore for about 20 miles. On the way, stop at one of several caseifici, or local cheesemakers, that line the strada to pick up fresh mozzarella, bread, tomatoes and wine for a picnic. The city also can be reached by train or bus.
Information: Trentova Tresino-Agropoli Visitors center, Via Fontana dei Monaci, Agropoli; https://www.cilentoediano.it/
Hours: Visitor center open Monday through Sunday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-9 p.m.
Where to eat: Have a home-cooked dinner at Ubbipo, a farm-to-table style osteria in the hills of Agropoli. The family-owned, vegetarian-friendly restaurant features regional pastas and specialties, such as Cilento Parmigiana with zucchini and potato and an omelet made with Vatolla onions. Dinner with freshly made pasta, an entree, dessert and a glass of wine is about 50 euros. Reservations are required; ample parking and host speaks English. https://www.ubbipo.it/en
