Picture if you will an urban scene of vibrant colors splashed across buildings, the lively chatter of local folks and tourists mingling, and the aroma of strong coffee and tasty Middle Eastern cuisine wafting through the air.
That’s Rainbow Street, nestled right in the heart of downtown Amman, the capital of Jordan. I’d heard a lot about this “must-see” thoroughfare before setting eyes on it during a recent trip.
Lined with cafes, restaurants and shops for the young and fashionable, Rainbow Street lives up to its name with colorful decorations adorning the buildings and quirky graffiti featuring things like Pokemon and pizza.
The U.S. has a significant military presence in Jordan, and service members deployed there had given me recommendations on what and where to eat.
But nothing could quite prepare me for the bustling energy that greeted me. Also, Amman is filled with hills, and Rainbow Street straddles a hilltop that offers stunning panoramas of the surrounding scenery.
Cafes and shops, mostly family-owned, line the street. Well-fed cats sauntered past the shops, and the beefy felines allowed me to pet them.
I found myself drawn to a cozy little spot called 1212 the Mid Coffeehouse. I spent hours there since the owners let me use their Wi-Fi and plug in my laptop.
I listened to their eclectic collection of local music and 1990s rock as I soaked in the literary vibes. Other customers came by and I could overhear their passionate arguments about geopolitics.
After nightfall, I ordered a delicious dinner spread that included hummus, halvah, pita and date molasses. The cafe owner, possessing trademark Jordanian hospitality, kept giving me more and more food.
I then went to Mijana, another spot on Rainbow Street that was recommended to me as a great place to eat Jordan’s trademark dish, known as mansaf. The meal consisted of a hearty portion of lamb, bread, rice and yogurt sauce.
I washed it down with a cup of Turkish coffee and listened to conversations, while looking out from the window of the restaurant’s rooftop terrace at the city below.
Mijana, like the places I had visited, had English-speaking servers who seemed very familiar with Americans. Getting to and from Rainbow Street was a breeze. Uber is available and every taxi driver knows of the street’s reputation.
Rainbow Street is also close to other landmarks in Amman, such as the historic downtown of al-Balad and the remains of a Roman theater.
Despite being more expensive and touristy than other places in Amman, the area manages to retain its charm.
It’s a fine place for a two-hour jaunt to pose for Instagram photos, but it’s also great just as a hangout for soaking in the atmosphere, which Rainbow Street has in spades.
On the QT
Location: Rainbow Street is in Jebel district, close to downtown, running east from First Circle to Mango Street.
Hours: All day. Nighttime is when a lot of the street comes alive, especially during Ramadan.
Cost: Free. Cafes and restaurants are more expensive than elsewhere in Amman.