A vineyard may not be a place many people think to visit when they’re in England. But maybe it should be.
My time in England has been filled with adventures in castles and natural landmarks, but a tour of Giffords Hall Vineyard gave my family a new, tasty perspective on the country we have called home for the past 2 1/2 years.
On a sunny Tuesday afternoon, my wife, kids and I were given a personal tour by Linda Howard, the owner of Giffords Hall. Her warm, funny personality was a delight, and she shared with us her plethora of knowledge about viniculture.
Linda and her late husband, Guy, took over the vineyard in 2005 and have won nine awards since opening their brand in 2009.
She walked us around the grounds, explaining the assortment of grapes and pointing out what makes each varietal special. She even let us eat grapes straight from the vine, which our children thoroughly enjoyed.
We also were introduced to her flock of black sheep, which wander throughout the paddocks. Two magnificent rams are named after her celebrity crushes, Daniel Craig and Prince Caspian.
The sheep are given free rein and help the vineyard practice minimal intervention principles as part of the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain program.
The vineyard is set on 19 acres of ancient glacial riverbed and hosts native flora and fauna such as deer, hares and owls.
After touring the grape-growing areas, we headed to the winery, where we met Woody, a minority partner who was monitoring the fermentation process.
He showed us the large stainless steel barrels filled with white grape juice and explained the way the grapes are pressed. Whenever I hear that topic discussed, I can’t help but recall the famous “I Love Lucy” episode where Lucy and Ethel are stomping around in giant barrels filled with grapes.
Thankfully, Giffords Hall employs a much more hygienic and efficient method, a large stainless steel press that gently squeezes the grapes.
During harvest season, Giffords Hall hires seasonal workers to hand-pick the grapes. They include a family of Romanians who have been doing the job for 14 years and Ukrainian refugees who came after fleeing the Russian invasion of their country.
From the fermentation area, we were taken to a barn where we saw square containers filled with “baby wine” and a Macedonian winemaker hard at work.
My wife took a sip straight from the containers and said it tasted how it was described: baby wine. She described it as a bit sweet. The grape flavor stood out due to being in transition from grape juice with alcohol to the final fermented product.
After being shown the barrels in which red wines are fermented, my wife and I enjoyed our wine tasting right inside the barn. Besides the cheese and wine pairing the two of us chose, my wife opted for an additional sparkling wine flight.
The Edmundsbury, a pinot noir and rondo blend known as Red Ed, was my favorite. It had a subtle flavor, and the cranberry notes in it stood out to me.
I also appreciated that it didn’t taste too sweet. Compared with other red wines I’ve had, this one was light and airy.
My wife’s favorite was the bacchus, which she described as dry but with hints of vanilla and an almost champagne aftertaste.
Our tour ended with a visit to the gift shop, where we stocked up on our favorite wines from the tasting and bought souvenirs.
England isn’t a place I ever thought of for its wine. But we learned that as the world gets warmer, top winemakers have been purchasing land in East Anglia for growing quality grapes.
Giffords Hall is among those who have pioneered the growing fine wine culture in England, and I can’t wait to bring our friends and family back for a visit.
Giffords Hall Vineyard
Address: Hartest, Bury St Edmunds, England
Prices: Dependent on group size and package. Small (2-6 people) from 44 to 73.75 pounds per person. Larger groups get bigger discounts per person.
Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
Information: Online: giffordshall.co.uk; Phone: +44 01284 830799