When I recently suggested to a friend that we have a bite to eat, he said he knew a great spot that would provide vast flavors with a relaxed environment: Charlie Chan in Cambridge, England.
While unassuming from the outside, the restaurant has a minimal yet slick interior that felt modern. The intuitive design of the double doors shielded us from the frigid weather as well as the noise from traffic on the main road.
Charlie Chan opened in 1982 and has earned accolades and awards over the years that in hindsight I would say are warranted.
We arrived around 1 p.m. on a Monday and were seated by a large mirror that made the area feel larger than it was. About a third of the dozen or so tables were occupied.
We were feeling a little overstimulated after our first look at the menu, which was just a large card in Chinese and English with spaces for patrons to mark what they want to order. The litany of tofu, meat, vegetable and even barbecue dishes was a lot to process.
We settled on sweet and sour crispy wontons as an appetizer and pork dumplings in chili sauce from the separate dumpling menu.
For entrees, I got a curry beef brisket with rice and my friend got duck and pork belly with barbecue pork fried rice. To drink, I had an apple raspberry mocktail and my friend had a Diet Coke.
I was served my main course in about five minutes. It was a simple presentation, with the curry beef atop an uneven bed of white rice. My friend’s entree arrived a few minutes later and had a more appealing display.
The appetizers came right after that and we dug in. The brisket was succulent, tender and fatty, while the curry was savory. For me, curry should have a level of spice.
Although my friend vouched for the spiciness of the dish, I didn’t detect it, maybe because of my high spice tolerance.
The pork belly in my friend’s entree had a chewy fat with sauce that soaked through the rice and brought flavor throughout the whole dish. The meat didn’t tear easily from the bone, he said, but the duck was very tender.
The wontons were extra crispy. While the meat filling wasn’t anything to write home about, the sweet and sour sauce served on the side pulled more than enough weight to make the product a hit.
The pork dumplings were bursting with flavor with a notable kick, and paired well with the soy sauce in which they sat. We also ended up getting five of them, one more than our server had told us to expect.
After the meal, I had leftovers, which I gladly took home. I also appreciated the hospitality of Charlie Chan’s staff, whose attentiveness and efficiency spoke volumes even in spite of the quiet demeanor of our servers.
Cambridge’s restaurant scene continues to impress me, and the winning streak is alive after my visit to Charlie Chan.
Charlie Chan
Address: 14 Regent St., Cambridge, England
Hours: Daily, 11:30 a.m.- 9 p.m. (last orders); closed Wednesday
Prices: Most appetizers are around 10 pounds; platters are about 20 pounds and up; main courses, 11-14 pounds; roasts, 15-17 pounds; desserts, 5 pounds.
Information: +44 0122 335 9336, www.charliechanuk.com