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Two Italian sandwiches ready to eat, from a shop in Naples.

Panini lovers can indulge their love of Italian cured meats, such as mortadella, ham and salami, and specialty cheeses at All'antico Vinaio in Naples, Italy. The chain-panini shop, based in Florence, Italy, also offers vegetarian and vegan options. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

One of the best ways to get a taste of Naples can be found in a visit to a local salumeria.

The neighborhood delicatessens stock prosciutto, ham and Italy’s much better answer to American bologna — mortadella — among other cured meats.

You can also find a vast selection of local cheeses, including fresh buffalo mozzarella, burrata and provolone.

And while it’s usually not displayed on a menu, if you ask, a salumeria owner will make you a panini, or sandwich, on local bread from meats and cheese freshly cut as you wait.

It’s a culinary experience that should top any foodie’s to-do list. Sadly, the options are limited for vegetarians and vegans.

That fact and a yen for a panini other than the tomato, mozzarella and basil version typically offered at salumerias led me to All’antico Vinaio.

Vegetarian Italian sandwich filled with vegetables and cheese.

All’antico Vinaio panini shop in Naples’ Centro Storico neighborhood offers a variety of vegetarian panini options, including the No. 3, which comes with spicy roasted eggplant, smoked provola, roasted potato cream and truffle cream on fresh focaccia for 10 euro. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

The Florence, Italy-based panini maker with worldwide locations, including in New York and Dubai, offers a variety of sandwiches on tasty focaccia, including three specifically tailored for those who don’t eat meat, and another for vegans.

On a recent early Sunday afternoon, a friend and I visited the shop’s location in Naples’ Centro Storico neighborhood not far from the University of Naples Frederico II.

Reminiscent of chain sandwich makers in the U.S., diners first see a counter displaying an array of condiments and toppings available for panini.

But that’s where the similarity ends. You won’t find mayonnaise, mustard or vinegar and oil here. There also isn’t any shredded iceberg lettuce or pickled jalapeno peppers.

Inside an Italian sandwich shop.

The order counter at All'antico Vinaio panini shop in Naples, Italy displays a variety of condiments, including pistachio, roasted potato and truffle creams, and other toppings available for sandwiches. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Inside an Italian sandwich shop.

The order counter at All'antico Vinaio panini shop in Naples, Italy displays a variety of condiments, including pistachio, roasted potato and truffle creams, and other toppings available for sandwiches. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Instead, a case displays pistachio, onion, roasted potato, truffle and other creams used to complement the meat and cheese. Roasted eggplant and zucchini, along with arugula, sundried tomatoes and a spicy pork sausage spread also are among the offerings.

Diners choose their sandwich from a large menu featured on an adjacent wall that also is available by QR code.

Offerings range from classics, such as the San Marco with ham, gorgonzola, truffle cream and fresh tomato to seasonal offerings like The Tasty with rolled pancetta, taleggio cheese and a pumpkin cream.

There even are American favorites such as a pastrami sandwich and a smoked turkey, mozzarella, tomato and avocado version called the Venice Beach.

Italian sandwich filled with meat and cheese.

The Paradise panini, or sandwich, at All'antico Vinaio in Naples, Italy, comes loaded with thinly sliced mortadella, stracciatella cheese, cream of pistachio and crushed pistachios on fresh focaccia bread. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

Vegans can opt for focaccia with hummus, sundried tomatoes, zucchini and eggplant.

Prices range from eight to 14 euros, but the paninis are large and could easily feed two people with smaller appetites.

On our visit, my meat-eating companion settled on one of All’antica Vinaio’s more popular paninis, the Paradise with mortadella, pistachio cream, stracciatella cheese and chopped pistachios.

Originating from Bologna, Italy, mortadella is made of ground pork, spices and pistachios. It also includes pork chunks.

Depending on the region, the recipe will vary. For example, myrtle berries, cloves or other ingredients can be added to mortadella, which has a smooth texture.

My friend’s sandwich came generously loaded with meat expertly garnished with the pistachio cream and stracciatella, a creamy version of mozzarella that has been torn as part of the stretching process.

The combination along with a crispy but not hard, lightly salted focaccia created “the perfect mouthful in every bite,” she said.

Workers at an Italian shop prepare sandwiches for customers.

Panini makers quickly assemble a variety of sandwiches available at All'antico Vinaio in Naples, Italy, wrapping them up for easy on-the-go noshing, or you can eat them in an adjacent dining room. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

I chose the vegetarian No. 3, roasted spicy eggplant, smoked provola cheese, roasted potato cream and truffle cream.

I’m not a fan of truffles and asked the panini maker to leave it off, which he did with no hesitation.

In fact, diners can individualize their sandwich, adding toppings or condiments for a little as 50 cents to 3 euros extra.

The sandwich came stuffed with eggplant with just the right amount of heat and nicely accented by the smoked provola and potato cream.

I’m embarrassed to say I ate every bit, and wondered what vegetarian offering I would try next time.

All’antica Vinaio doesn’t offer the cultural experience of a visit to an Italian deli but its imaginative menu and quick, accommodating service make it worth a visit.

Italian sandwich shop in Naples.

Panini lovers can indulge their love of Italian cured meats, such as mortadella, ham and salami, and specialty cheeses at All'antico Vinaio in Naples, Italy. The chain-panini shop, based in Florence, Italy, also offers vegetarian and vegan options. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)

All’antica Vinaio

Address: Corso Umberto I, 28, Naples

Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Monday-Friday; 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday-Sunday

Prices: 8-14 euros for panini; 2-5 euros for water, soft drinks, beer and wine; 18 euros for red or white wine by the bottle

Information: allanticovinaio.com

author picture
Alison Bath reports on the U.S. Navy, including U.S. 6th Fleet, in Europe and Africa. She has reported for a variety of publications in Montana, Nevada and Louisiana, and served as editor of newspapers in Louisiana, Oregon and Washington.

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