One of the best ways to get a taste of Naples can be found in a visit to a local salumeria.
The neighborhood delicatessens stock prosciutto, ham and Italy’s much better answer to American bologna — mortadella — among other cured meats.
You can also find a vast selection of local cheeses, including fresh buffalo mozzarella, burrata and provolone.
And while it’s usually not displayed on a menu, if you ask, a salumeria owner will make you a panini, or sandwich, on local bread from meats and cheese freshly cut as you wait.
It’s a culinary experience that should top any foodie’s to-do list. Sadly, the options are limited for vegetarians and vegans.
That fact and a yen for a panini other than the tomato, mozzarella and basil version typically offered at salumerias led me to All’antico Vinaio.
The Florence, Italy-based panini maker with worldwide locations, including in New York and Dubai, offers a variety of sandwiches on tasty focaccia, including three specifically tailored for those who don’t eat meat, and another for vegans.
On a recent early Sunday afternoon, a friend and I visited the shop’s location in Naples’ Centro Storico neighborhood not far from the University of Naples Frederico II.
Reminiscent of chain sandwich makers in the U.S., diners first see a counter displaying an array of condiments and toppings available for panini.
But that’s where the similarity ends. You won’t find mayonnaise, mustard or vinegar and oil here. There also isn’t any shredded iceberg lettuce or pickled jalapeno peppers.
Instead, a case displays pistachio, onion, roasted potato, truffle and other creams used to complement the meat and cheese. Roasted eggplant and zucchini, along with arugula, sundried tomatoes and a spicy pork sausage spread also are among the offerings.
Diners choose their sandwich from a large menu featured on an adjacent wall that also is available by QR code.
Offerings range from classics, such as the San Marco with ham, gorgonzola, truffle cream and fresh tomato to seasonal offerings like The Tasty with rolled pancetta, taleggio cheese and a pumpkin cream.
There even are American favorites such as a pastrami sandwich and a smoked turkey, mozzarella, tomato and avocado version called the Venice Beach.
Vegans can opt for focaccia with hummus, sundried tomatoes, zucchini and eggplant.
Prices range from eight to 14 euros, but the paninis are large and could easily feed two people with smaller appetites.
On our visit, my meat-eating companion settled on one of All’antica Vinaio’s more popular paninis, the Paradise with mortadella, pistachio cream, stracciatella cheese and chopped pistachios.
Originating from Bologna, Italy, mortadella is made of ground pork, spices and pistachios. It also includes pork chunks.
Depending on the region, the recipe will vary. For example, myrtle berries, cloves or other ingredients can be added to mortadella, which has a smooth texture.
My friend’s sandwich came generously loaded with meat expertly garnished with the pistachio cream and stracciatella, a creamy version of mozzarella that has been torn as part of the stretching process.
The combination along with a crispy but not hard, lightly salted focaccia created “the perfect mouthful in every bite,” she said.
I chose the vegetarian No. 3, roasted spicy eggplant, smoked provola cheese, roasted potato cream and truffle cream.
I’m not a fan of truffles and asked the panini maker to leave it off, which he did with no hesitation.
In fact, diners can individualize their sandwich, adding toppings or condiments for a little as 50 cents to 3 euros extra.
The sandwich came stuffed with eggplant with just the right amount of heat and nicely accented by the smoked provola and potato cream.
I’m embarrassed to say I ate every bit, and wondered what vegetarian offering I would try next time.
All’antica Vinaio doesn’t offer the cultural experience of a visit to an Italian deli but its imaginative menu and quick, accommodating service make it worth a visit.
All’antica Vinaio
Address: Corso Umberto I, 28, Naples
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Monday-Friday; 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Friday-Sunday
Prices: 8-14 euros for panini; 2-5 euros for water, soft drinks, beer and wine; 18 euros for red or white wine by the bottle
Information: allanticovinaio.com