Zum Landgrafen's charming exterior, viewed from the square across the street in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, on Aug. 17, 2024, invites patrons to relax in the shade of the linden tree in the beer garden. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
After a long day of hiking and outdoor adventure, there’s nothing quite like stumbling upon a great local spot to refuel.
Nearly hugging the French-German border in the heart of the Palatinate Forest Biosphere Reserve, the quaint village of Ludwigswinkel offers Zum Landgrafen, a cozy restaurant with a beer garden and rustic indoor seating.
On a sunny Saturday, my wife and I settled in comfortably beneath the shade of a giant linden tree. Among the voices around us, I caught the distinct melody of French. The proximity to France brings an international charm to this small village.
Our meal began with a creamy and light Palatinate onion soup enriched with bits of smoked ham for my wife.
Meanwhile, I indulged in the Mediterranean grilled feta, a generous portion of sheep’s milk cheese served alongside a vibrant medley of grilled summer vegetables and finished with a zesty pesto and crispy baguette. The combination was both satisfying and fresh.
Zum Landgrafen offers a thoughtfully curated menu that caters to a range of preferences. For those seeking plant-based options, which are clearly marked, a vegan schnitzel provides a satisfying alternative to traditional meat dishes.
A comforting bowl of Palatinate onion soup with ham bits at Zum Landgrafen restaurant in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, on Aug. 17, 2024. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Grilled Hirtenkäse, feta accompanied by a colorful array of summer vegetables and pesto, offers a satisfying start to a meal at Zum Landgrafen in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, on Aug. 17, 2024. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
The cozy, rustic interior of Zum Landgrafen in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, offers traditional charm mixed with modern comfort. During the summer, the eatery also offers a comfortable curbside seating area. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
I couldn’t resist the Dreierlei Knoedel, a trio of bread, spinach and beet dumplings served with fresh king oyster mushrooms. The mushrooms, with their chewy texture and mild, earthy flavor, were a delightful companion to the soft dumplings, all brought together in a light, creamy sauce.
On another occasion, I tried the homemade ravioli filled with wild mushrooms, served with a parmesan basil pesto. While the ravioli were perfectly al dente and the mushroom filling flavorful, the robust pesto slightly overshadowed the delicate mushroom taste. A creamy mushroom sauce might have been a better match.
For meat lovers, there are traditional Palatinate staples like Hoorische Knepp, raw potato dumplings with ham sauce. Changing seasonal specialties, such as the roast game in Dornfelder wine sauce with cranberries, showcase the region’s produce.
On Sundays, special burger offerings have some creative toppings for those seeking American-style comfort food. There is also a selection of steaks, including Black Angus.
A hearty beef roll served with savoy cabbage mashed potatoes captures a classic of German home cooking at Zum Landgrafen restaurant in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, on Aug. 17, 2024. While the roulade is a staple, the menu also features changing seasonal dishes with local ingredients. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A plate of mixed dumplings served with fresh king oyster mushrooms in a light, creamy sauce is a vegetarian's delight at Zum Landgrafen restaurant in Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The restaurant's menu lists several vegetarian options. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
My wife chose the Rinderroulade, a classic German dish featuring thinly sliced beef wrapped around a filling of mustard, onions and pickles, all simmered in a rich red wine sauce.
Paired with savoy cabbage mashed potatoes, it was a hearty choice that highlighted the restaurant’s commitment to traditional fare.
Although the portions were filling, we couldn’t resist trying the desserts. My wife chose the frozen yogurt parfait, a refreshing treat layered with blackberry, strawberry and blueberry, all decadently topped with warm honey and sesame.
The honey’s sweetness beautifully complemented the tangy yogurt, making it a light yet indulgent end to her meal.
I savored the Pistachio Dream, a concoction with three generous scoops of pistachio ice cream, whipped cream and crunchy pistachio crumbles, all nestled atop a rich pistachio cream bed.
Tje frozen yogurt parfait at Zum Landgrafen restaurant in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, is topped with blackberries, strawberries, blueberries, warm honey and sesame seeds. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
The Pistachio Dream, a trio of pistachio ice cream scoops topped with whipped cream and crunchy pistachio crumbles, at Zum Landgrafen in Ludwigswinkel, Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Both satisfied our sweet tooth and took some heat out of the summer’s day.
The man behind these culinary creations, chef Klaus-Dieter Liesenfeld, has been running Zum Landgrafen with his family since 1991.
The restaurant, however, is named after the village’s founder, Landgrave Ludwig IX of Hesse-Darmstadt, who formally established the town in 1783.
Zum Landgrafen benefits from this prime location in a region rich with attractions, including a dense network of hiking trails, a nearby pony farm, picturesque lakes and a recreational area with a barefoot path.
With its warm hospitality, delicious food and relaxing surroundings, it’s an ideal place to unwind from adventures but also can be a destination all on its own.
Gasthaus Zum Landgrafen
Location: Landgrafenstrasse 33, Ludwigswinkel, Germany
Hours: Thursday through Monday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Kitchen is closed daily from 2 to 5 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers start at 5.20 euros for the beef soup with traditional German bone marrow dumplings. Entrees from 12 euros for the potato dumplings to 26.90 euros for the 9-ounce Black Angus steak.
Information: Phone: +49 6321-3554426; Online: zumlandgrafen.de
