Melenzane in Manama, Bahrain, lets patrons customize pizzas. In the picture is a pepperoni and mushroom pizza with extra basil. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
I delayed my hunt for good pizza after moving to Bahrain, mostly out of fear of disappointment.
My standards are admittedly lofty after my arrival from Washington, D.C., which has excellent options. Train rides to Philadelphia and New York also offered life-changing pizza experiences. Just sit at the East Village Una’s counter one evening, if you’re ever so lucky, and tell me differently.
I decided on Melenzane because it reminded me of my time in Sicily, and the name translates to eggplant, which I love. The website describes the cuisine as Italian but reinvented: a fusion of “Sicilian recipes when tradition meets innovation.”
The restaurant Melenzane is in Manama's The Avenues mall, situated at Bahrain Bay. The design is reminiscent of something out of a "Mad Max" film. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Melenzane is in the new Avenues Mall at Harbor Gate in Bahrain Bay at the far end near the food court, and you can’t miss it. Its towering decor makes it look like it was pulled off the set of “Mad Max.”
I would have preferred to watch the pizzaiola, but the wrought-iron chairs surrounding the marble pizza bar lacked cushions and didn’t look comfortable. It wasn’t crowded, so I opted to sit at a table for four.
The mint lemonade is a refreshing option at Melenzane, an Italian restaurant in Manzana, Bahrain. No alcoholic beverages are served at the restaurant. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
Four pizzas are on the menu, including the classic Neapolitan-style Margherita and one with pepperoni. The two more adventurous pies were a truffle ricotta pizza and another with smoky chicken and mushroom, topped with kale and a creamy sauce.
No seasonal specials were available, though there are options for pasta, risotto and other main courses, including eggplant parmesan.
The Botanica salad was a highlight of the experience at Melenzane in Manama, Bahrain. It includes kale and baby spinach with cranberries, walnuts, sunflower seeds and grapes, with a passion fruit and pomegranate dressing. The salad also features goat cheese crumbled atop shreds of crispy phyllo. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
I started on the Botanica salad with kale, baby spinach, cranberries, walnuts, sunflower seeds and grapes dressed in passion fruit and pomegranate salad dressing with crumbled goat cheese.
There were also threads of crispy phyllo tossed throughout the salad. I didn’t expect much from it but was pleasantly surprised with the variety of textures and the welcome balance of sweet and tart. I will loyally order the Botanica if I ever return.
Toasted breadsticks are served with labneh, a thick yogurt, topped with olive oil and spices at Melenzane in Manama, Bahrain. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
A plate of complimentary breadsticks and a ramekin of labneh drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and chili flakes were brought to the table.
The idea of serving them with the labneh, a thick Middle Eastern yogurt, rather than just the olive oil was genius.
For the pizza, the waiter let me mix and match because I considered only pepperoni too dull. I settled on a pie with pepperoni, mushroom and extra basil and hoped for the best.
The pizza arrived quickly, as it should, from the wood-fired oven. The charred, bubbly crust looked promising. But the first cut revealed flat, dense dough. The crust has some pleasant chew to it, if none of the air pockets that vary texture. Unfortunately, this and the varied mushrooms were the best part of the pizza.
Olive oil infused with red pepper is available at every table at Melenzane to drizzle over dishes. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
The “pepperoni” was made from beef rather than pork, which is to be expected in Bahrain. The problem was lack of flavor. I drizzled chili-infused olive oil, added salt and chili flakes and ultimately gave up after two slices, returning to my salad.
I washed it all down with a Bahraini classic mint lemonade. Alcoholic beverages aren’t served here and the mocktails are essentially fruit juices.
I didn’t want to completely give up on the pizza, so I sought redemption in getting the rest of it to go. But the slices packed in the Styrofoam box were layered on each other. By the time I got home, the pizza was a soggy mess.
A chef at Melenzane restaurant in Manama, Bahrain, drizzles sauce over a barbecue pizza, one of the four pizzas offered. It is topped with smoked chicken, mushrooms and kale. (Shannon Renfroe/Stars and Stripes)
I salvaged it somewhat with a pan, quality olive oil, smoked sea salt, lemon zest, Aleppo pepper and unconditional love. While my Melenzane visit was worth it thanks to the salad, my search for a good pie in Bahrain continues.
It should be noted that the air conditioning in the restaurant was running full blast when I was there. I advise bringing a shawl or sweatshirt to stay warm.
Also, be aware that there may be children screaming in the background, electric play trains driving around the mall and shoppers walking by and watching you eat. It’s not ideal for a first date or an anniversary, but it’s an option after a round of shopping or a casual day out.
Melenzane
Address: The Avenues Mall, Bldg. No. 3977, Road 4660, Manama, Bahrain
Hours: Noon-11:45 p.m. daily
Prices: Pizzas are 5-6 BD ($13-$16), salads are slightly less. Expect to pay 12-15 BD per person for full courses and a drink.
Information: Phone: 973 1616 3526; Online: order.melenzanebh.com/en
