By the K in Lautern shopping center in Kaiserslautern, Germany, is a new eatery mysteriously called Miami Food. But if you go there expecting a sampling of South Florida, you’re in for a shock.
Miami Food is an Afghan restaurant offering dishes such as kabuli pulao, bolani and chapli kabab. This was a delightful discovery for me because after more than three years reporting in Afghanistan for Stars and Stripes, I had grown to love the country’s cuisine.
On my visits to the restaurant, I often heard Dari and Pashto, the biggest Afghan languages, as customers eagerly ordered baked goods. Most often, they were buying bolani, a thin stuffed flatbread that I enjoyed often while in Afghanistan.
It was a perfect light snack to grab from local food carts for a few cents on my walk back to the office after a day of work. The bolani at Miami Food lived up to my memories.
Each piece is baked and includes a thin, flaky layer of bread on the outside, with savory and lightly spiced potatoes or onions inside. I found myself going to the restaurant daily for lunch in hopes of getting a bolani before they sold out.
My favorite dinner dish at Miami Food is the kabuli pulao, consisting of marinated lamb under an ample pile of steamed rice and adorned by raisins and carrots. Known as the national dish of Afghanistan, it served as the centerpiece of so many lunches and Ramadan dinners while I was reporting there.
The lamb meat was soft enough to tear apart with a fork, and I could tell that the cooks took their time in making it tender. The rice was soft and fluffy, and glistened from the meat juices it had been cooked in.
Afghan cuisine is not spicy, but it is rich. The carrots and raisins added sweetness that cut through the savory meatiness of the dish.
It’s recommended that you order kabuli pulao with Afghan flatbread and a cup of tea. Having bread with a pile of rice might seem like being on the verge of carb overload, but this is not a dish for those on a diet.
Restaurant owner Shirendel Gulahmad told me he knows that Afghanistan isn’t what comes to mind when people hear the name Miami Food.
Gulahmad said he chose it out of affection for American culture. When he arrived in Germany 38 years ago after fleeing the Soviet Union’s invasion of Afghanistan, he took a liking to the 1980s crime drama “Miami Vice,” he said.
Now, Gulahmad hopes to share Afghan culture through food with U.S. troops at the bases around Kaiserslautern. He said he doesn’t intend to alter Afghan recipes to German and American tastes, but he might introduce Syrian and Kurdish food at some point in the future.
There are other restaurants in the area that specialize in Afghan or Persian cuisine. But Miami Food, despite its misleading name, cooks the culinary fare that transported me back to Kabul most, and to the memories and meals I shared there.
Miami Food
Address: Fruchthallstrasse 19, Kaiserslautern, Germany
Hours: Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-11 p.m.
Prices: Kabuli pulao and biryani rice dishes are 10 euros and come in ample portions. Pizzas are 8 euros. Pastries and breads are 2 euros apiece or less. Cash only for the time being, but the restaurant intends to set up payment by card in the future.
Information: Phone: +49 01577 6934126, Online: facebook.com/people/Miami-Food/61558188013654