An appetizer platter of cold-cut salami, croquettes, fried onion rings and tomato mozzarella drizzled in balsamic vinegar is served on a rustic wooden board at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
For a land known more for fried pork and sausage, Germany has quite an abundance of Italian restaurants enticing patrons with the lure of a Mediterranean-inspired meal.
Finding a genuinely good Italian restaurant here, however, involves more than just spotting the cliche red-and-white-checkered tablecloths.
In Italy, a good trattoria or a stellar restaurant is often just a follow-the-local-crowd away from discovery, especially around 8 or 9 p.m., when Italians often dine.
Tucked away in the quaint village of Kerzenheim, a 30-minute drive from Kaiserslautern, Grifo Restaurant offers just such a hidden find. Following an emphatic recommendation on social media, my wife and I visited this inconspicuous spot on a recent weeknight.
Housed in an old farm building from the 1600s complete with charming wooden beams and exposed rock walls, the eatery set a rustic yet cozy stage for culinary delights ahead.
The warmth of the interior struck me immediately. With only about 30 seats in the main dining room and a few extra in an anteroom during the summer months, the space felt intimate and inviting for a quiet dinner for two or a relaxed evening with friends.
Constructed about four centuries ago, the building that houses Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany, is steeped in history. Originally a farm building, it features such characteristic elements as thick stone walls and heavy wooden beams. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
The quaint alley leading to Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany. Nestled between rustic farm buildings in the small village, the entrance of the restaurant seems almost hidden. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A colorful array of the bruschetta appetizer at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany, features a unique twist with garbanzo bean and basil pesto. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A plate of homemade vegetarian tortellini served at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany, Jan. 10, 2024. The pasta is filled with ricotta cheese and served in a rich mushroom cream sauce, which is enhanced with a hint of truffle oil for a luxurious finish. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
We later found out that an outside seating area is available in the summer. Beneath the main dining area, a vaulted cellar adds another layer to the restaurant’s charm. This space offers seating for larger groups and has become a cultural hub in the small village, hosting art and entertainment.
Reopened in the wake of the pandemic in June 2021, Grifo puts a special emphasis on the lesser-known but highly acclaimed Umbrian cuisine, which is reimagined to appeal to contemporary and local palates, according to its owners. Its name is Italian for griffin, an important symbol in the city of Perugia, which is the capital of Umbria.
Our culinary journey began with the mixed Italian “surprise” appetizer platter. The board included classics like cold-cut salami, and tomato and mozzarella drizzled with balsamic vinegar. It also had unexpected additions such as potato croquettes and fried onion rings, which seemed more attuned to a German or American palate than truly Italian.
But it was an enjoyable and hearty start to our meal. A vegetarian option is the light bruschetta plate with chickpea and basil pesto toppings.
For the main course, I opted for the homemade vegetarian tortellini with mushroom cream sauce from their seasonal menu. The pasta, filled with a smooth ricotta cheese mixture, was al dente perfection, beautifully complemented by the sauce, which was enhanced with rich truffle oil.
The spring menu version comes with a delightful sun-dried tomato cream sauce with a drizzle of balsamic reduction.
A plate of vegetarian homemade tortellini with ricotta -mozzarella filling and sun-dried tomato is served at Grifo Restaurant, in Kerzenheim, Germany, complete with cherry tomato cream and a drizzle of balsamic reduction. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A visually deceptive white chocolate dessert shaped and colored like a lemon, featuring a tangy citrus center, is reminiscent of the popular "Is it cake?" memes, at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Meanwhile, my wife enjoyed the pork fillet in herb crust, accompanied by parmesan potato puree and a wild herb salad, dressed lightly and topped with a teriyaki glaze and onion crumble. The portion sizes were just right, especially after our appetizer.
Grifo also offers a full menu page of their take on the pinsa, a pizza cousin with a smaller, thicker base. The vegetariana is generously topped with mozzarella, grilled zucchini, bell peppers and mushrooms on a crispy crust. It’s a solid must-try for pizza lovers.
While I found options as a vegetarian, this Grifo is a haven for meat lovers. The menu features a variety of smoked meats, such as crispy guanciale, which our waiter told us adds a savory richness to their classic carbonara.
Their selection extends to robust and familiar offerings like the Irish beef rumpsteak, and the Kalbskotelett nach Mailänder Art, a Milanese-style veal chop that Grifo combines with the crispness of lime mayo. The homemade agnolotti pasta, filled with wild boar, reflects the Umbrian use of game and local ingredients.
A tender pork fillet encased in a crispy herb crust, accompanied by parmesan potato puree and a wild herb salad dressed with a teriyaki glaze and onion crumble, as served at Grifo. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A gluten-free twist elevates the Milanese-style veal chop dish featuring a cornflake and parmesan crust at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany. Paired with roasted potatoes and lime mayo, it offers a fusion of traditional flavors with a modern twist. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A vegetarian pinsa at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany, Jan. 10, 2024. The dish features a crispy crust topped with mozzarella cheese, grilled zucchini, bell peppers and mushrooms, offering a hearty option for patrons seeking a twist on pizza. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
The blueberry bomb dessert features blueberry ganache and a core of wild blueberry jelly, creatively presented at Grifo Restaurant in Kerzenheim, Germany, to look like a splattered blueberry on a white plate. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Dessert was another highlight. I couldn’t resist the crispy lemon, a clever creation of white chocolate dusted in yellow, encasing a gooey tart lemon center. It was a treat for the eyes and the taste buds.
My wife’s choice, the “blueberry bomb,” mirrored the appearance of an actual blueberry but several times the size, revealing a lush blueberry ganache with a heart of wild blueberry jelly.
Tucked away in the old charming farmstead, Grifo is easily missed if you blink. It’s a noteworthy destination for those seeking a blend of rustic charm and taste of Umbria in the heart of the Germany’s western Pfalz.
Restaurant Grifo
Address: Eisenberger Strasse 1, Kerzenheim, Germany
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.; Sunday and German holidays, noon-2 p.m., and 5:30-10 p.m.
Prices: Appetizers start at 9.50 euros. Main courses range from the homemade tortelloni mozzarella priced at 16.90 euros to more indulgent options like the Irish beef rumpsteak at 27.90 euros. Seafood options include the John Dory filet for 25.90 euros. Wines starting at 3.50 euros, soft drinks at 3 euros, and beers also from 3 euros. Espresso is available for 2.20 euros, and the ice-cream-topped affogato costs 3.70 euros.
Information: Online: griforestaurant.de
