Gino Sorbillo defied convention at his family's original pizzeria in Naples, Italy, creating a pineapple pizza. Despite the uproar over a topping long considered forbidden by Italians, patrons have shown a willingness to try the pineapple pizza. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
Until recently, there have been two unbreakable pizza rules in Naples.
First, it must be eaten immediately after it comes out of the oven. You don’t wait for others at the table to get theirs or you risk diminishing the joy that comes with a Neapolitan pie.
The second rule is that pineapple is vietato, or prohibited.
But one of Italy’s most famous pizza chefs brazenly cast that tenet aside in a December Instagram post challenging fellow Italians to give pineapple on pizza a chance.
“Surely 99% of the ‘Neapolitan Pineapple Pizza’ skeptics have never tried it,” Gino Sorbillo wrote Dec. 30. “Try asking (them) have you ever eaten it?”
The backlash was swift and certain.
“I have unfollowed you,” wrote one of 449 respondents. Many questioned Sorbillo’s loyalty to Italian culture, tradition and cuisine. One asked whether he would sell his mother.
With that in mind, I recently visited his shop on Via dei Tribunali, in the heart of Naples’ historic Centro Storico. Established in 1935 by Sorbillo’s grandparents, the pizzeria has grown into a chain of international restaurants.
There are five more in Naples and 14 others elsewhere, including in Rome, Milan, Miami and Tokyo. Another is planned to open soon on Italy’s famed Amalfi coast.
The interior of the original Sorbillo pizzeria in Naples, Italy, features natural stone and wood and is decorated with modern lighting. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
I recommend the historic Tribunali location, with its eye-catching architectural elements and lively street scene.
The interior boasts natural stone and wood finishes with modern lighting and decorative touches. The cozy first floor has tables tightly nested in the main dining area and an adjacent room. Additional seating is upstairs.
We sat at an eating bar situated by a large picture window that looked out onto the street. My dining companion reminded me of another rule: Don’t come before 7:30 p.m. or the pizza oven won’t be hot enough. We were just in time.
Sorbillo’s menu is solely devoted to pizza. Traditional favorites such as Margherita or marinara accompany more complex offerings with specialty cheeses and meats, such as mortadella, prosciutto and pancetta.
There’s even a vegan pizza with “cheese” made from tofu. But pizza con ananas, or pineapple pizza, isn’t listed.
I ordered that one. The waiter gave me a knowing chuckle. I smiled and nodded. It was a sort of secret handshake in the spirit of the old speakeasies during Prohibition.
My friend ordered the Ciro, which features a sauce made with tomatoes grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, parmigiano Reggiano cheese and oregano.
The Ciro arrived first, and it didn’t disappoint. The traditional paper-thin Neapolitan crust was lightly charred, giving the pizza a slight smokiness.
The Ciro, which includes a sauce made with tomatoes grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, is one of the many pizzas offered at Sorbillo in Naples, Italy. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
The absence of the traditional mozzarella topping only enhanced enjoyment of the perfectly seasoned tomato sauce. My dining companion quickly devoured every bite, save one for me.
My pizza arrived a few moments later with a caramelized pineapple ring in the center. A few other pineapple pieces were scattered on top of the pie, which was blanketed with smoked provolone, a dusting of pecorino cheese and a few basil leaves.
The smoky and salty cheeses balanced the sweetness of the fruit with the basil, offering freshness to each bite. It was flavorful without being cloying.
There was nothing American about it. It was pure Neapolitan genius.
We asked one of our waiters what he thought of the pizza. He shrugged his shoulders before quickly leaving the table, our question unanswered. It’s a touchy subject, my friend said.
It should be noted that the pineapple pizza currently is available only at the Via dei Tribunali location.
Later, the cashier told us Sorbillo sells about 50 pineapple pizzas each day. That’s a small portion of the more than 1,000 pies baked daily at the location, but it’s still popular, he noted.
As one Instagram commenter said: “Bravo, Gino!”
The original Sorbillo pizzeria was founded in 1935 on Via dei Tribunali in Naples' Centro Storico neighborhood. The business has grown into an international chain. (Alison Bath/Stars and Stripes)
Sorbillo
Address: Via dei Tribunali 32, Naples, Italy
Hours: Noon-3:30 p.m.; 7-11:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays.
Prices: 4.50-10 euros for most pizzas; 2-5.50 euros for water, soda and glasses of beer and wine; 9-14 euros for half-liters or full bottles of wine
Information: Phone: +39 081 446 643; online: www.sorbillo.it
