This pepperoni pizza served at Caruso Ristorante and Vini in Kirchheimbolanden restored faith in such pies in the German region. The waiter seemed disappointed in such a basic order, though. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)
Panic had started to set in after two bad pizza experiences in my neck of the Nordpfalz.
I refused to believe my best choice was a doner kebab place, which is described best as passable.
Thus, Caruso Ristorante & Vini in Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, about 30 minutes north of the U.S. Army’s Kleber Kaserne, caught my eye. It’s next to my doctor’s office, and the smells emanating from the building early one day got me salivating.
I made a reservation for one on a Thursday evening, and what I tasted surpassed my expectations.
Serving customers since 1995 just south of the Stadthalle an der Orangerie, Caruso is no surprise to the inhabitants of the town affectionately dubbed Kibo. Its popularity was evident from the few empty tables – most of them two-seaters.
Caruso Ristorante and Vini has been in the town of Kirchheimbolanden, Germany, since 1995. (Matt Wagner/Stars and Stripes)
After looking at the menu, I decided to give other items a try as well, building up to the pizza I considered to be the main event.
The first item was a daily special: a pumpkin cream soup. I have grown fond of it here in Germany, and Caruso did not miss. It was hot, heavy and rich in flavor. The seeds added a nice texture contrast, and dipping slices of bread into the soup really soaked up the flavors.
The next item I decided to try on a whim. The tortelloni gorgonzola sounded pretty good based off the menu’s description, but it wasn’t supposed to be the main meal for me.
That all changed when the server brought out the dish. I immediately recognized the smell, which was similar to my homemade Alfredo sauce. After lathering part of a tortelloni in it, I took a bite.
I let out a perhaps too loud squeak of delight. The sauce relied on the natural flavor of the cheese, and it was so creamy that each bite filled me with bliss.
The Gorgonzola sauce was so good that I did everything but lick the plate clean. A server saw me struggling using a fork to lap it all up once the tortelloni was consumed (at a rapid pace, I might add) and took pity, bringing out a couple slices of bread. By the end, I left practically nothing on the plate, and I pined for more.
It was then that the server asked if I was ready for the pizza. I had forgotten completely about my main reason for coming to Caruso, and the weight of all that cheese hit me like a ton of bricks.
The server saw that written in eyes and body language and suggested waiting 10 minutes. I agreed that was the best course of action.
My stomach still wasn’t ready when the pizza came out, but I reminded myself of my purpose.
I took my first slice of pizza and realized it made up for my bad experiences thus far. The dough was thicker on the outside and thinner toward the middle, just the way I like it, and the sauce was the best I have had since moving to Germany.
The cheese and pepperoni were class as well.
Thankfully I was able to take half the pizza home because I couldn’t have another bite, no matter how much I enjoyed it.
I originally went to Caruso looking to restore my faith in the pizza scene but instead found an entire menu I want to sample. The good news for me is that it’s just minutes away from house, so I have ample opportunity to do so.
Caruso Ristorante & Vini
Address: Im Kuechengarten 1 67292 Kirchheimbolanden
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday, Monday and Wednesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday.
Prices: Food starts at 8 euros for appetizers and 11 euros for main dishes. It can range up to 30 euros, although many are 14-20 euros. Pizza begins at 9 euros with a gluten-free option available.
Information: Online: da-caruso.de; Phone: +49 6352 1777