Sometimes I’ll hear friends rave about a restaurant that mildly interests me enough to end up in the “I’ll get there someday” column.
I finally made it to one of them, the Turkoman Bar and Grill in Newmarket, which is 20 to 30 minutes away from the RAF Lakenheath tri-base area.
By the end of the meal, I had only one question in mind: “Why has it taken me so long to come here?”
The restaurant opened in June 2021 and has found success with Turkish cuisine, which shares some similarities with food in the adjacent Middle East but departs in other ways, particularly with preparations and seasonings that reflect Turkey’s position as a global crossroads.
The uninitiated who are used to thinking of Turkish food in terms of the many doner kebab shops around Europe are in for a pleasant surprise here. I went during lunch on a sunny Tuesday afternoon, right when the place opened.
The aesthetic of the restaurant contrasts with the traditional English architecture found in much of the countryside. A white marble facade gives way to an interior with a large wall of flowers adorning it.
As I walked in further, I took in the modern, lavishly decorated dining area. I was handed the menu and began looking for the lamb, which for me is what Turkish cuisine does best.
Thanks to an open kitchen, I could see everything prepared from my seat. I could even smell my food being cooked, which heightened my anticipation.
I started with the lahmacun, which is a Turkish flatbread seasoned with minced lamb, onions, tomatoes, red peppers and parsley. It was OK, but what elevated it were the sauces the server brought out.
There was a lime-enhanced red sauce that tasted similar to a salsa, as well as a small plate of olives and tzatziki sauce. I mixed the red sauce with the tzatziki and it made for a delicious combination, using the lahmacun as a platform.
Next came the Adana kofte, which is minced lamb, parsley and chili pepper flakes cooked on a charcoal grill. It came with a side salad, rice and bulgur wheat.
The meal looked exactly like the better ones I had when I was deployed to Syria, but even tastier.
Every bite of the lamb was juicy and flavorful, and well-complemented by the salad and rice. I cleaned my plate.
For dessert, I had a Turkish coffee with some baklava. I haven’t been able to get Turkish coffee since I left the Middle East, and it was a wonderful blast from the past.
It is stronger and sometimes more bitter than your standard American coffee, but full of flavor. The sweet baklava with a side of ice cream was a great way to end the meal.
Turkoman Bar and Grill
Address: 146 High Street, Newmarket, Suffolk, England
Prices: Starters, soups and sides range between 4 pounds and 8 pounds; main dishes and specialty group meals range from 17 pounds to 90 pounds; Desserts range from 2.40 pounds to 7 pounds. The lunch menu is less expensive than dinner.
Hours: Seven days a week from noon to 11 p.m.
Information: 01638-666-868; Online: turkoman-bargrill.co.uk