Leave it to the 82nd Airborne’s Polish pizza choices to give the commander in chief heartburn.
President Joe Biden had time to kill at Rzeszow Airport when the Polish president’s plane got delayed. Instead of hanging out at the duty-free shop, he met with U.S. soldiers deployed to support NATO allies following Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine.
The paratroopers were eating pizza they ordered from nearby Pizzeria Gusto and offered Biden a slice of No. 22, a pie topped with pepperoni, olives, mushrooms and a healthy dose of jalapeno peppers. Biden teared up a little from the jalapeno heat.
During a press briefing later that day, Biden started coughing and needed water. He blamed his discomfort on “the pizza pie with hot peppers on it.”
A year later, Pizzeria Gusto is a favorite of deployed U.S. troops and contractors, even though it’s a little farther from the nearest military base gate than another pizza joint.
While in southeast Poland for a reporting assignment, I decided to find out whether the pizza, now dubbed the “Spicy Joe” and adorned with an American flag, is as hot as it’s cracked up to be.
When photos of Biden eating the pizza with troops began circulating, some customers traveled from more than 100 miles away to taste it for themselves, owner Damian Drupka said.
While demand for the pizza has calmed, Agnieszka, the waitress who took my order, nodded when I asked for my own Spicy Joe as if she had been expecting it.
That was during the first of two visits I made to the pizzeria, which felt welcoming and modern with its bright, blue booths and large television showing music videos.
I started with a Greek salad. It included an enjoyable and extremely light feta cheese. The ingredients were fresh and simple.
The soldier I was traveling with opted for the Hungarian soup, which was somewhat spicy and included pork. The portion was big and he said it tasted like Chef Boyardee ravioli, which, he added, was a good thing.
With the appetizers out of the way, it was time for the main event. I almost always order a cheese pizza with jalapenos if it’s available, so the Spicy Joe was right up my alley, except for the pepperoni, which I picked off.
The first bite brought a nearly instant explosion of heat. I coughed uncontrollably a few times, and just like Biden, I reached for a glass of water.
The soldier with me was perplexed. He’d been eating a similar pizza, the Gringo, with pepperoni, jalapenos, parmesan and arugula. And while he said it was superb — especially the pepperoni, which he described as “way above average” — he didn’t find it particularly spicy.
You just never know with jalapenos, where the heat level ranges markedly. The rest of my pizza wasn’t as spicy as that first slice.
I decided a follow-up taste test was necessary and came the next day during a busy lunchtime. Besides pizza, dishes like breaded pork chops with fried sauerkraut, grilled chicken cutlets and dumplings with various fillings lure customers in.
“We come here about every other day,” said Jerrick Cruz, one of several U.S. contactors enjoying lunch. “Usually on cold days, we’ll get soup. The kebab is pretty good. Actually, all the food here is good. It’s natural. It’s fresh.”
The soldier I was with ordered potato pancakes, which were topped with a sweet goulash, creme fraiche and cheese. It was mushy and fell apart as he ate. He described it as “pretty Polish,” which he again clarified was a good thing.
After removing the small American flag from my second Spicy Joe and taking a bite, I had a far less intense reaction than the one the day before. It was spicy, but not overwhelming. The crust again was soft and exceptional. A tasty garlic dip was the perfect complement.
I ate every slice, but none made me rush for a glass of water.
Drupka, the owner, wasn’t surprised. He doesn’t find the Spicy Joe extremely spicy either and speculates Biden’s reaction last year may have been due to his age or possibly eating a pizza with double jalapenos, which he said Americans often order.
However, I can attest that there are some rogue peppers at Pizzeria Gusto that would surprise even the most avid jalapeno pizza eaters. If you’re in this part of Poland, I recommend stopping by and trying a Spicy Joe.
If you don’t get an extremely hot slice like Biden and I did, you’ll still get a delicious meal, a flag and a good story to tell when you head back home.
Pizzeria Gusto
Address: Pilsudskiego 8, Glogow Malopolski, Poland
Hours: Monday through Saturday, noon-11 p.m.; Sundays, 1-11 p.m.; telephone orders accepted until 10.30 p.m. Deliveries available.
Prices: Small pizzas (12 inches) range from $7.25 to $9.30, large pizzas (16 inches) range from $7.70 to $10.25. Pasta dishes range from $5.35 to $6.55. Other main dishes range from $5.80 to $7.
Information: Online: www.pizzeriagusto.pl; Phone: +48 17 859 1600