Zur Pfaffschenke restaurant is a small eatery tucked away on a side street near Westpfalz Clinic in Kaiserslautern, Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Germany is known for its charming half-timbered houses and quaint medieval town squares. Less picturesque but no less important are the country’s industrial areas, which created Europe’s wealthiest economy.
In Kaiserslautern, home to tens of thousands of American service members and their families, the now-closed Pfaff factory was once one of the largest economic drivers in the city, producing sewing and welding machines for over 150 years.
Seating is limited at popular eatery Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany. The restaurant offers basic German and international comfort fare in a cozy, no-frills setting. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Founded in 1862, Pfaff employed nearly 10,000 people worldwide at its height. In 2008, the company filed for bankruptcy after years of financial trouble.
Tucked away in a somewhat dreary quarter of Kaiserslautern next to the former Pfaff factory is Zur Pfaffschenke, or Pfaff Tavern, which once served as a community pub for factory workers.
The Pfaff sewing machine factory grounds in Kaiserslautern, Germany, as seen from the front gate in 1969. The factory declared bankruptcy in 2008 and its grounds are under development. (Kaiserslautern City Archives)
Despite its humble beginnings, Pfaffschenke for almost two decades has served as a beloved side street eatery that does not rely on marketing or social media, but on its local reputation and those in the know.
Such recommendations are what brought it to the attention of my wife and me. Entering through a small door, we immediately noticed the floor covered with vintage, utilitarian brown tiles, reminding us of the restaurant’s blue-collar past.
With two large windows and a small bar, the no-frills interior maintains its original look. The restaurant only has about 10 tables.
Guests wait for their food at one of only two window tables at Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany. Space in the German restaurant is limited and seats fill quickly each night. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Reservations are absolutely recommended, as all tables were booked on the Tuesday night we visited.
The restaurant’s motto, “Schlemmen fuer die ganze Familie,” or “Indulging for the Whole Family” is not an empty promise. Despite its modest setting, the menu at Zur Pfaffschenke surprises with an extensive range of dishes, from familiar German favorites like schnitzel, spaetzle noodles and steaks to international dishes, including panzerotti and risotto.
In spite of its traditional flair, the restaurant also features a separate menu of modern vegan and vegetarian dishes that caught our eye. And while the restaurant has a decidedly local clientele, the menu is translated into English.
Many dishes can be prepared gluten-free, according to our friendly waitress.
The fried mushroom appetizer at Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany, comes with tartar sauce and a side salad. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A hot garlic soup with poached egg makes for a good winter pick-me-up at Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany, offers traditional German fare along with international favorites like pizza and risotto. The restaurant also offers a full vegan menu and gluten-free options. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Coming in from a chilly evening, we opted to warm up with the garlic soup, a clear vegetable broth fortified with a floating poached egg. We also chose the mushroom appetizer, which came with a creamy tartar sauce and a side salad.
My wife then enjoyed a traditional pork roll stuffed with lamb cheese and peppers, and sides of country potatoes with buttery steamed vegetables.
The rolled pork stuffed with cheese and peppers comes with steamed vegetables and country potatoes at Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany. The eatery offers a large menu of German comfort food favorites. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
The tangy banana peppers and fluffy cheese provided a nice pick-me-up to an otherwise heavy meal. And although the pork was a bit dry, the flavorful sauce combined with the al dente veggies rounded out the meal nicely.
I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try the vegan rendition of the traditional schnitzel. Although I don’t usually like meat replacement products, this soy-based version had a subtle, savory taste and pleasant breadlike texture that soaked up the flavors of the creamy mushroom sauce.
A vegan rendition of schnitzel with creamy mushroom sauce at Zur Pfaffschenke restaurant in Kaiserslautern, Germany. Instead of pork, the fried steak is made from a large piece of vegan soy product with a bread-like texture. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
A small hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and fresh fruit at Zur Pfaffschenke in Kaiserslautern, Germany. The restaurant also offers a limited selection of vegan ice cream. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Both our portions were large and we barely made it to dessert. Nonetheless, we indulged in some chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream on a bed of fresh strawberries, plums and nectarines. It was both refreshing and delightful.
Although Pfaffschenke may not be the most glamorous restaurant in town or a fancy date night spot, its staying power indicates that it remains a beloved local institution.
Late evening visitors sit at Zur Pfaffschenke, or Pfaff Tavern restaurant, in Kaiserslautern, Germany. The restaurant once served as a pub for Pfaff factory workers. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)
Zur Pfaffschenke
Address: Albert Schweitzer Strasse 54, Kaiserslautern, Germany
Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Mondays.
Prices: Entrees range from 8.80 euros for a medium pizza to 23.80 euros for rump steak with mushrooms. The restaurant also features a changing menu with weekly specials and seasonal items.
Information: http://zurpfaffschenke.cafelists.com and on Facebook; 0631-310-3090.
