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The guard tower of Area 1 near Ludwigswinkel, Germany, framed through foliage on Aug. 9, 2024. The structure once watched over one of the largest U.S. Army ordnance depots in Germany.

The guard tower of Area 1 near Ludwigswinkel, Germany, framed through foliage on Aug. 9, 2024. The structure once watched over one of the largest U.S. Army ordnance depots in Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

Southwestern Germany’s Palatinate Forest can seem like a blur of green uniformity to car and rail travelers, but hidden adventure spots abound just beyond the hills.

The town of Ludwigswinkel, near the French border and an hour’s drive from Kaiserslautern, is among them. It’s a gateway to a hike with a fascinating blend of history, nature and outdoor relaxation.

For military families and history buffs, walking through the forests here is a journey through time, from Cold War relics to stunning sandstone formations.

A convenient place to park is the Landgrafen Restaurant. The hike begins at a large map near the old schoolhouse, leading onto a fine gravel path where the surroundings quickly transition from village to forest.

Just as you find yourself enveloped by towering trees, the trail again opens into a clearing, and there it is: a remnant of a not-so-distant past.

A signpost along the trail points the way to Area 1 and the Rumberg sandstone columns, leading hikers through a journey of history and nature. The trail is well-marked and easy to follow.

A signpost along the trail points the way to Area 1 and the Rumberg sandstone columns, leading hikers through a journey of history and nature. The trail is well-marked and easy to follow. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

The guard tower of Area 1 stands in the evening light on Aug. 9, 2024, near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The structure once watched over one of the largest U.S. Army ordnance depots in Germany.

The guard tower of Area 1 stands in the evening light on Aug. 9, 2024, near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The structure once watched over one of the largest U.S. Army ordnance depots in Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

The guard tower of Area 1 stands as a concrete reminder of America’s Cold War past in the region. Once part of the U.S. Army’s large Fischbach Ordnance Depot, this now-abandoned historic site was fortified with the kind of security that could rival Fort Knox.

Signposts placed by a local historical society guide visitors to 13 sights on 32 acres of “the Palatinate’s youngest castle.”

Between guard bunkers and checkpoints, roads meander through the clearing, past a pond where frogs croak, a surprisingly peaceful contrast to the site’s once-ominous purpose.

This was where nuclear weapons were stored, ready for rapid deployment should the Cold War have turned hot. Today, the site’s graffiti-riddled remnants offer a sobering reminder of that era.

A row of structures on “bunker alley” still exhibits some of the security features of the “weapon access delay system,” including steel cages and barbed wire. The encroaching vegetation and forest now cover an area that was once completely cleared to allow guards a clear shot at intruders.

A reinforced bunker door with its cage still intact in the former Area 1 near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. These doors once secured the entry to bunkers storing nuclear weapons during the Cold War.

A reinforced bunker door with its cage still intact in the former Area 1 near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. These doors once secured the entry to bunkers storing nuclear weapons during the Cold War. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

After absorbing the history of Area 1, follow the trail onward through the dense forest and up the Rumbergsteig trail. As you climb, you may notice your phone switching to a French provider, a subtle reminder of just how close you are to the border.

Soon, the first sandstone formations come into view, with the highlight being the five spectacular Rumberg towers. These colorful columns evoke the scenery of the American West. Lizards bask on sun-warmed stones and the scent of pine fills the air.

Pausing here for a break is a must. The sandstone formations are not just visually stunning. The rock’s texture, eroded over millennia, creates a striking scene that feels almost otherworldly.

A close-up of tafoni, small cavelike formations on a sandstone wall in the Rumberg formation near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. These geological features form on rock surfaces, especially in sandstone, granite and other porous rocks as a result of weathering processes.

A close-up of tafoni, small cavelike formations on a sandstone wall in the Rumberg formation near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. These geological features form on rock surfaces, especially in sandstone, granite and other porous rocks as a result of weathering processes. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

A slender sandstone tower rises dramatically from the forest floor, part of the stunning Rumberg formation near Ludwigswinkel, Germany.

A slender sandstone tower rises dramatically from the forest floor, part of the stunning Rumberg formation near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

A lizard basks in the sun on a sandstone rock in the Rumberg formation on Aug. 10, 2024. The warm, dry environment of the sandstone is a perfect habitat for these reptiles.

A lizard basks in the sun on a sandstone rock in the Rumberg formation on Aug. 10, 2024. The warm, dry environment of the sandstone is a perfect habitat for these reptiles. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

A path winds between two colorful sandstone walls near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The Rumbergsteig hiking trail offers easy access to hikers of all skill levels.

A path winds between two colorful sandstone walls near Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The Rumbergsteig hiking trail offers easy access to hikers of all skill levels. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

Descending from the Rumberg, the trail gently guides you back toward Ludwigswinkel. A refreshing stop awaits at the Rösselquelle, where icy spring water bubbles up, offering a cool respite for weary hikers.  

For those not yet ready to call it a day, the Wasgau Lake Tour provides an extended adventure. This 10-mile loop first leads to the Lindelskopf mount, where a short climb rewards you with panoramic views of the village below.

Continuing the journey, you’ll encounter the idyllic Pfälzerwoog, a lake that in summer is adorned with pink water lilies that reflect beautifully in the still waters. Approaching Fischbach-bei-Dahn, you catch sight of the White Madonna, a 13-foot-tall concrete statue of the Virgin Mary that serves as a poignant symbol of peace.

The trail eventually loops back through dense forest and past more than five serene bodies of water, leading to the perfect way to end a summer day: a swim in the cool waters of the Saarbacherhammer Lake near Ludwigswinkel.

Water lilies float serenely on the Pfälzerwoog, their pink blooms adding a splash of color to the tranquil lake. The large pond is a popular stop for hikers seeking a moment of peace.

Water lilies float serenely on the Pfälzerwoog, their pink blooms adding a splash of color to the tranquil lake. The large pond is a popular stop for hikers seeking a moment of peace. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

The White Madonna statue stands atop a hill near Fischbach-bei-Dahn, Germany, symbolizing peace. The statue was erected in 1959 as a World War II memorial and an anti-war symbol.

The White Madonna statue stands atop a hill near Fischbach-bei-Dahn, Germany, symbolizing peace. The statue was erected in 1959 as a World War II memorial and an anti-war symbol. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

The view from the Lindelskopf platform offers a breathtaking panorama of Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The climb up is short but steep, with a rewarding view at the top.

The view from the Lindelskopf platform offers a breathtaking panorama of Ludwigswinkel, Germany. The climb up is short but steep, with a rewarding view at the top. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

There is no fee to use the lake, which is a popular summer destination for nearby residents but was not too crowded even on a sweltering weekend day.

For those needing a final treat, the Ludwigswinkel barefoot path offers a fun, tactile experience that challenges your feet with a variety of textures from warm, soothing sand to a knee-high mud bath followed by cold river rocks.

A couple of hikers make their way toward the Saarbacherhammer swimming area near Ludwigswinkel, Germany, on Aug. 11, 2024. The lake is a refreshing end to a day of exploring the area, which borders France.

A couple of hikers make their way toward the Saarbacherhammer swimming area near Ludwigswinkel, Germany, on Aug. 11, 2024. The lake is a refreshing end to a day of exploring the area, which borders France. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

The Wasgau Lake Tour trail near Fischbach-bei-Dahn, Germany, has stops at assorted ponds and lakes, such as this one as seen on Aug. 11, 2024.

The Wasgau Lake Tour trail near Fischbach-bei-Dahn, Germany, has stops at assorted ponds and lakes, such as this one as seen on Aug. 11, 2024. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

Children enjoy the barefoot path in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, experiencing different textures underfoot. The path offers a fun way to connect with nature and recover from a day's hike.

Children enjoy the barefoot path in Ludwigswinkel, Germany, experiencing different textures underfoot. The path offers a fun way to connect with nature and recover from a day's hike. (Alexander Riedel/Stars and Stripes)

Completing both trails in a single day is ambitious but realistic. For families with young children or those who prefer a slower pace, tackling just the Rumbergsteig and cooling off in the Mühlweiher is a perfect summer outing.

Area 1, Rumbergsteig and Wasgau Lake Hike

Address: Landgrafenstrasse 33, Ludwigswinkel, Germany

Hours: Open year-round, but best visited in spring and summer

Cost: The trails are free, only the barefoot path visit costs 2 euros.

Information: Online: sites.google.com/view/ig-area-1-e-v/startseite

author picture
Alexander reports on the U.S. military and local news in Europe for Stars and Stripes in Kaiserslautern, Germany. He has 10 years experience as an Air Force photojournalist covering operations in Timor-Leste, Guam and the Middle East. He graduated from Penn State University and is a Defense Information School alumnus.

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