The Swiss get all the credit for the Alps, which is a shame, because the Italian Alps are ridiculously pretty.
They’re particularly spectacular in the Dolomites, a range of 18 peaks in the northeast of Italy that UNESCO says “are widely regarded as being among the most attractive mountain landscapes in the world.”
That seemed like reason enough to visit, so one sunny Sunday in May I set off on the 90-minute drive from Vicenza to Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park.
The park boasts an abundance of plant and animal life in addition to its magnificent views. I headed to Lake Mis, which has parking and a restaurant, and is a jumping-off point for several hikes. If you want to spend the night, you can camp or rent a cabin.
My goal was to hike the Lake Mis-Val Falcina trail, a moderately challenging loop of roughly 2.5 miles. It starts steep, gaining about 2,000 feet of elevation in the first stretch.
The good news is that afterward, you get to go mostly downhill. Start counterclockwise to do the uphill section first. The trail is very well-marked and maintained, but the downhill stretch is paved with small rocks, which can slip and require steady footing.
I can imagine it would be particularly treacherous after a rain, which we’ve had a lot of in northern Italy lately. Visit on a sunny, dry day if possible.
The uphill section at the beginning has several lookout points with gorgeous views over Lake Mis. Halfway through the hike, there’s a waterfall, where I was grateful to refill my water bottle.
You’ll have to cross two creeks, and the difficulty will depend on the time of year. In a historically rainy May, there was quite a bit of water. I jumped from boulder to boulder across the first creek but had to simply wade through the second.
It was a warm day, so I was happy for the cool-down, but I wouldn’t suggest doing this hike much earlier in the spring because it could be cold with higher water. The park website recommends the hike between March and November.
On the other hand, you don’t want to get too hot. Most of the hike is shaded and the elevation helps offset the heat, but make sure to bring a water bottle.
The trail winds from lake vistas to waterfall to secluded pine forest to meadows. Towering over the Val Falcina is Mt. Pizzocco, which is more than 7,000 feet tall.
Within the two hours it takes to complete the hike, you cross four distinct geographies, ending with a lookout over a bridge and Lake Mis.
I couldn’t stop exclaiming about how pretty it all was and how I can’t wait to come back to try the other trails. The loop spits you out steps from the park’s small restaurant, where a cold beer or lemonade awaits. There’s also ice cream, wine, pizza and burgers. Or bring your own picnic and join the crowds lounging on the grass.
Perhaps the best part of the national park was its remarkable quiet, even on what the restaurant staff told me was a busy day.
Overtourism has been a hot topic in Italy lately, with Venice implementing a day tax and other cities struggling to accommodate influxes of summer tourists. Nearby, Lake Como is considering a tourism fee, as is Lauterbrunnen in the Swiss Alps.
But at least for now, Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park hasn’t caught the world’s attention. That makes this the perfect summer to escape the crowds in the rest of Italy and head into the mountains.
Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park
Directions: Take SS 203 (Agordina) up to Mas. Follow signs to Valle del Mis and park at Pian della Falcina.
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. or 24 hours if staying overnight
Cost: Free
Information: dolomitipark.it/en