DONGDUCHEON, South Korea — Any place that has neon-plastic palm trees adorning its sidewalk can’t be all bad.
I suppose real palm trees would better set the tropical mood for Pho Ahn’s Vietnamese cuisine, but neon is so much more Dongducheonesque.
Located about 2 miles north of Camp Casey’s main gate on Highway 3, Pho Ahn is much bigger than the average local restaurant.
The clean, colorful dining area provides table seating and traditional floor seating that appears ideal for large groups.
Pho (pronounced “fuh”) noodles are rice noodles, usually served in a clear broth with meat and/or vegetables. Pho Ahn serves pho southern Vietnam style, which typically has thinner noodles, bean sprouts and herbs like cilantro.
A medium but hearty bowl of pho with beef, chicken or seafood costs 7,000 or 8,000 won (about $8), and a large bowl is only 1,000 won extra.
Each dish can be ordered mild or spicy — and they aren’t kidding around when they say “spicy.” They’ll even bring some extra chili powder for you if your ears aren’t whistling steam.
If pho isn’t your thing, Pho Ahn’s extensive menu offers plenty of other food with Vietnamese or Southeast Asian accents. Groups may want to try the suki, a platter of meats or veggies eaten fondue style, similar to Korean and Japanese shabu-shabu.
Curries, Thai soups and vaguely Chinese dumplings also are available.
Most of the menu items have pictures, and it’s best to look before ordering. Feeling adventurous and mentally linking them to tasty mangoes, I ordered the mangosteens for dessert.
But the mangosteen is nothing like a mango. Do not attempt to eat it like an apple. Do not eat the brown part. But once you figure it out, the tiny fruits aren’t bad.
I could almost picture myself eating them under the sway of not-so-neon palm trees. Almost. I hear it’s a common hallucination after 18 months of living near Dongducheon.
To see previous After Hours reviews, go to stripes.com/afterhours.
Pho Ahn
Prices: 7,000-10,000 won for noodle and rice dishes; group platters 15,000-20,000 won. Vietnamese beer 5,000 won.Specialties: Pho and other Vietnamese foodEnglish menu: Yes, with pictures.Dress: Decent casual.Clientele: Mostly Korean.Location: From Camp Casey’s main gate, head right on Highway 3 for about 2 miles. Pho Ahn is on the right. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., every day.Web site: www.phoahn.com (Korean)
